Summer 2018 destination – The Broughton Archipelago

We have had Sea Reach, our 42’ Spencer for over a decade. We have been up to Haida Gwaii twice, circumnavigated Vancouver Island three times, been down to Mexico, across to Hawaii and back but have never explored the much-loved Broughton Archipelago. This summer, with just over 5 weeks of cruising time available to us, was a perfect opportunity to spend some time in these remote islands that stretch across the inner reaches of the Queen Charlotte Strait. As always the journey there was an integral part of the adventure and we have a new treasure throve of memories to buoy us through the winter.

Squamish to Refuge Cove 103 nm

We left Squamish on the afternoon of June 08 arriving in Plumber Cove Marine Park in the evening. We didn’t go ashore but picked up a mooring buoy and had an early night. It was raining but no worries – we were back on the water.

The next day we headed over to Gibson’s Marina and paid for two nights of mooring.

We planned on visiting friends who had recently moved to the Sunshine Coast from Squamish and I also had a report to bring to the Baha’i Community there, as I had been a delegate at this year’s National Baha’i Convention in Toronto. 

Gibson’s is a great place to visit no matter the weather. The recently opened aquarium in the Public Market building is delightful and a wonderful introduction to the underwater world we skim over as we voyage these coastal waters.  It primed us for looking more closely beneath the surface as we kayaked around anchorages and helped with some of the identification of the sea creatures we spied beneath the tranquil waters of sheltered bays and coves along our route north. The market itself, just steps away from the marina, was a convenient place to stock up on perishables.

 

On June 11 we headed for Smuggler Cove, 22nm up the Sunshine Coast.

We left just after a low tide of 3’6’’ – and cautiously made our way over Shoal Passage. We have found the best route through using our electronic charts and find it passable in all but 2 or less tides. Of course if there is a lot of chop then a higher tide becomes more critical.  We were able to set sail once we cleared the point and sailed for about two hours in 10-15 knot winds from the NW. The wind then diminished to 5-10 knots and we continued using power and sail arriving at Smuggler Cove at 1600.

There were three other boats already moored. We stern tied in 14.6 ft of water at the top of the tide. Decided to leave well before the expected 2 ‘ low the followed day at 1130. Had a kayak out to Welcome Passage later in the evening. 

The next day SE winds provided a favorable push up the Malaspina Strait. We left at 0930 and decided to forego a side trip to Pender Harbour and continue on to Powell River, arriving at Westview Marina at 1530. John Russell at the fuel dock very kindly gave John a ride to fill up the spare propane tank. The first place would not fill it because the valve was out of date (by several years apparently!). One more item on the ‘to do’ list – replace valves on propane tanks. John Russell then drove him to another place that filled the tank without question. 

We had a layover day in Powell River to pick up more groceries and to visit and have dinner with Baha’i friends, Gina, Marilyn, Denise, Doug and Vicki.

On June 14 motor sailed in light winds using the outside route past the Copeland islands to improve our use of the wind. We arrived in Refuge Cove at 1230 about 30 minutes before a low tide of 1.3 ft, anchoring in 45 ft of water northwest of the fuel dock. Refuge Cove is on West Redonda Island in the heart of Desolation Sound. The small community of some 20 families in the summer. less in the winter, could well be described as the heart of Desolation Sound. Working cooperatively, they provide a variety of services to the hundreds of cruisers that stop by when traveling in the area. Services include moorage, fuel, propane, groceries, showers, laundry, meals, home baked goodies and local gifts and crafts. They were just gearing up for the season when we arrived and the restaurant was receiving a facelift and some new construction, so was not yet open. A well-stocked grocery helped top us up for the next leg of the journey.

Refuge Cove to Port MacNeil – 125 nm

The next leg of our cruise was traversing the rapids up through the squeeze points between Vancouver Island, and the Mainland between the Islands of Discovery Passage. We choose the inside route to the Broughtons. This avoids most of the Johnstone Strait that can be rough especially when traveling north against a northwesterly. We traveled through Calm Channel to Codero Channel, Chancellor Channel, Wellbore Channel and Sunderland Channel. This brought us through five sets of rapids; Yuculta, Gillard, Dent, Greene Point and Whirlpool Rapids. Quite a bit of tides, currents and travel time to calculate to transit at safely but the route is majestic and free of cruise ships and most commercial traffic with great stopping off points along the way.

Left Refuge Cove on June 15 at 0800, expecting high winds – gale warning for the Johnstone Strait. Glad we had made the inside route decision. Experienced some 15-20 knots in the early morning but it settled to 10-15 knots by 1000. We saw two humpbacks in Calm Channel at the entrance to Deer Passage. There may have been more, but two for sure. We arrived at Yuculta about one hour before slack turning to flood. (when travelling north need to go with an ebb tide) We waited for 30 minutes then made our passage through. No problems. Some swift current around Whirlpool Point. We moored at Stuart Island Community Dock in Big Bay. ($1/ft moorage plus $5 for showers). Had a lovely hike to Eagle Lake. Well named. We counted 8 eagles soaring and circling around the lake. There was a very large old cedar along the trail – a real beauty.

Left Big Bay at 0630 to catch the slack at Gillard Passage and then on through Dent Rapids. Winds quite high for the first hour and then quickly settled down to about 10 knots. We had planned on mooring at Codero Lodge but the place was empty with a ‘For Sale’ sign posted and looked quite sad. The floats looked like they had not come through the winter well. We checked out Cordero Islands just south of Greene Point Rapids and found a very nice sheltered spot to anchor in. We went for a wonderful kayak to explore the anchorage. We saw two mink, each one on a different island, lots of bright pink and red sea anenomes and a forest of kelp between two of the islands. Met Amanda and Barry Glickman on Papa Rumb with dogs Murphy and Salty. Had a very nice visit on board with them. They are Bluewater Cruising Association members who have traveled widely off shore down to Patagonia and beyond. 

Next day was an early start 0600 to catch the slack at Greene Point Rapids and then hurry on to Whirlpool Rapids. Arrived 30 mins before slack. A small amount of current against us but we pushed through and soon started to make speed on the ebb, motoring along at 6-7 knots. Our early start allowed us max time with help from ebb before the winds set in against us. We arrived at Whirlpool Rapids 2 hours before max ebb and went through at about 8 knots – some turbulence north of Carterer Point that pushed the boat around but very doable. It was now just 0830 so decided to continue on down Sunderland Channel with the ebb in our favour and winds around 10 knots against us. We put the main sail up in Sunderland Channel. Winds increased when we got to the opening into the Johnstone Strait. We decided to keep heading for Port Harvey with Blinkensop and Port Neville as bail out options.

Winds and chop really started to build about 2 nm south of entrance to Port Harvey.

 We arrived in Port Harvey at 1200 – 39 nm further north. George met us on the dock with his pizza order pad in hand and a big welcome. We ordered pizza for supper and cinnamon buns for breakfast. They were just completing their rebuild after the sinking of their floats the winter before last. We chose to moor rather than anchor. The closing of Codero Lodge is an ominous warning of how fragile some of these small outport/marinas are if they do not get enough people mooring. It is a very narrow season and as we learned, seems to be getting short each year with fewer people arriving during the shoulder months of May/June and September. A few other boats arrived later in the day and we all sat down for pizza together.

 

New Buildings at Port Harvey Marine Resort

Left Port Harvey after a breakfast of freshly baked cinnamon buns, delivered to the dock by George at 0730. They were delicious and we were glad we had ordered 4!

Our trip through Chatham Channel went smoothly. Important to follow the range – particularly in the first part of the channel, where the navigable portion of the channel is narrowest. Arrived at Lagoon Cove just before lunch and tied up to a finger barely big enough for Sea Reach. Several boats arrived later in the afternoon, including evensong, a 47’ Outward Bound with Jan and Lynn on board. We had hailed each other before transiting Whirlpool Rapids on June 17. They are on their way to Haida Gwaii. We chatted with them over appies and happy hour. Went for a late evening kayak – fabulous. Atmosphere at Lagoon Cove is especially friendly. Moorage is 1:45/ft but showers are free. Complimentary morning coffee on the docks and prawns supplied each night as part of the potluck appies, really help bring mariners together to meet and converse. 

 

Lagoon Cove is quirky as ever with a table tennis set up on the lawn to keep visitors amused

Left Lagoon Cove after a delicious pancake breakfast and headed down Clio Channel towards Nicholas Point on Turnour Island and the entrance to ‘Beware Passage’. Saw the petroglyphs at the entrance to the passage, close to the old village of Karlukwees Band. Headed across the passage using directions in Wagonner for navigating through Tugboat Passage about one hour before low tide. A narrow passage requiring a mid stream passage once turned into the channel. Least depth experienced was 8’ below our keel. Glad to have accurate electronic charts. All went well until just before ‘Dead Point’ when the engine surged a few times and quit. A light NW breeze allowed us to quickly let out some jenny and sail into an unnamed cove south of the point and anchor in 26 feet of water. We were glad we had sail power! We decided to have lunch and gather our wits before tackling the engine. Sea Reach sat smugly and bobbed at anchor while her captain spent two excruciating hours with his long body contorted as he wrestled with the engine (We had been talking treachery and tugboat fantasies while moored among some beauties at Lagoon Cove – I swear she was listening and had decided to chasten her crew). It was either an air leak or dirty fuel, so he decided to bleed the engine and replace the fuel filters. The first mate was also pressed into service and was required to assume a humble and crippling pose to access the small pump point that needed pressing until all injectors had fuel flowing. Thankfully the engine started but we had quite enough adventure for one day and decided to stay where we were for the night. It was quite a nice anchorage.

Next day, there was some light rain and early morning fog. We left once the fog had lifted. Could hear chatter on the VHF out in the Johnstone Strait where fog continued to create visibility problems. However, it was clear for us as we travelled through Indian Passage and Blackfish Sound. Lots of kayakers on the water.  We anchored in a cove behind Spout Island. Two other sailboats were already at anchor there but lots of room. Hot veggie soup for lunch today. A bit cold and dull. It warmed up in the afternoon and we went for a two-hour kayak around the islets and into Double Bay.

Saw three mink – a rusty red colour.

 

Kayaking in Double Bay - the view from here is magical

Sea Reach at anchor at Spout Island

We had a very pleasant night at anchor in a beautiful anchorage – but found a lot of kelp on the anchor when we raised it. Holding may not be great in high winds.

We motored over to Sointula on Malcolm Island. We docked on the inside of L finger – North Dock. The harbor is run by the Lions Club and is very welcoming. John was able to print off, sign and scan some documents that needed to be sent to the lawyer re sale of condo in Squamish. We had fish and chips at the Burger Shack and met a lovely couple, Harley and Leanne who have been living there since 2014 – Love it there. Harley works in the arctic. Our neighbor across the finger from us, Mark, is also hoping to move there permanently. We borrowed two bicycles and had a wonderful time exploring this beautiful island. Went to the bakery and the museum.

The following day we went to Port Mac Neil, left the boat and took the walk on ferry to Alert Bay. Visited Steve and Mary Cook, longtime Bahà’ì ’s from Alert Bay. We spoke with the harbour master, Steve Bruce regarding overnight moorage – yes- can come to small boat harbour operated by Namgis Nation – or anchor in bay – will be back sometime and visit overnight by boat. Visited the U’mista Cultural Centre – very worthwhile – excellent collection with storyboards plus short films. Later that evening returned to Port Mac Neil and had a wonderful supper and evening with Winnie and Granger Avery (Granger is a colleague of John’s and practiced medicine in Port Mac Neil for over forty years). Had a wonderful evening with them. We had one more night at Port Mac Neil before returning to Sointula.

 

Open net fish farms very unpopular both in Alert Bay and Malcolm Island. Salmon farms proliferate throughout the Broughtons. 

There is something very special about this island. We had seen a very nice house at Dickenson Point for sale. John contacted the listing agent for us to view it at 12 noon.

It is a large well-constructed home built in 1987. It was moved from Sidney 7 years ago by present owners who bought the site, developed it and prepared a foundation with crawl space. – Nicely landscaped – seafront property with 180 deg. views of seascape. A bit dated inside but of a high quality. Has a carriage house attached to garage with a one bedroomed self-contained suite. Definitely grabbed our attention.

We had lunch at Coho Joe’s – very good home cooked food and baking. We had a layover day in Sointula. Checked out Upper Crust Bakery – very good – but not a lot of baking on the shelves. Coho Joe’s is an excellent little dinner that serves breakfasts and lunches. – but not until 9:30 a.m.  We went go the local hotel for supper. We had quiche and lasagna – neither was great but the clam fritters were good. We also biked plus hiked to Bere Point Regional Park – spectacular views + hikes from there. Invited Mark from Runa over for breakfast. Had a great visit. He is a retired film guy/instructor at Simon Fraser who has lived on his boat for the past 12 years. Plans to spend the rest of his life in Sointula.

Sointula to Port Harvey - a week of exploration in The Broughtons – 112 nm

On June 26 leftwe left Sointula heading for Cullen Harbour at the entrance to Fife Sound on the south side of Broughton Island. A dull day with scattered showers – no wind – motored all the way. A bit disappointing as we had hoped to get a nice sail across Queen Charlotte Strait. We anchored behind some islets within the harbour  - quite a bit of current as tide started to ebb. Good holding but a strong pull on the anchor chain. The next morning we went for a two-hour kayak around the islets + arms of harbour and outside. Passage into Booker Lagoon had a very strong flood current into it. Decided not to go through as we would have to wait for turn to ebb to get back out. Explored around Nelly and surrounding islets.

Headed for Echo Bay at 1230 the following day. A 10 kt breeze plus a lift from the tide allowed us to sail with just the jenny out at 4-5 knots. Very happy to be finally sailing and had a pleasant trip up Fife Sound. Put our engine on just before Pym Rocks to complete the passage. Echo Bay is a very popular stop in The Broughtons. Five other boats moored – space for many more. Full season not in swing yet. Moorage was $1:45/ft . It’s a lovely quaint assortment of lodge, cabins and floats. Diesel available and a store, plus showers and a laundry so very well set up. Pierre and Tove, the owners for 40 years have just put the place up for sale.

We had a layover day in Echo Bay – did laundry – kayaked over to Coast Salmon Research station – a post set up by Eco warrior, Alexandra Morton. Met with Erica and Heather. Heather currently manages the station with her husband. Erica is a master’s student working there for the summer. Lots of ongoing monitoring and research related to sea lice and their impact on wild salmon smolts as well as other diseases and general health. They also conduct large marine mammal counts. Lots of humpbacks but only transient Orcas – mammal eaters. We visited Billy Proctor’s museum and store. At 82, he is still managing the place. Bought a copy of “Heart of the Rainforest”- the story of his life – beautifully crafted in collaboration with Alexandra Morton. What a rigorous life, deeply connected to the natural world.

 

Erica and Heather gave us a tour and explanation of the work at Coast Salmon Research Station

Pierre's at Echo Bay- Well stocked and well set up for visiting mariners

Left Echo Bay on June 29 just as two large American motor yachts were pulling in. We have met more motor yachts than sail boats and more Americans than Canadians cruising here this summer. We were able to have a lazy sail on the jenny for 3 of the 5 nm miles to Laura Bay. One other boat there ahead of us. We moved further behind Trivett Island to anchor. No room to drag but enough swing room. We bobbled around our anchor without ever stretching it, a very sheltered spot. Three more boats squeezed their way in before evening, the last two stern tying to avoid swinging into each other. We were the only sailboat there. 

We were the first boat to raise anchor the following morning. Decided to do a detour through the Burdwood group of islands as we had heard great praise for them. Need to pilot carefully through them but there are beautiful – a kayakers paradise. Saw seals basking by the waterline, well camouflaged by the rocks. Lots of small beaches nestled amongst the islets. We then headed on to Lacy falls, idling by her   - She was in her full splendor due to ample rainfall. Tribune Channel had hanging mists and plunging waterfalls along her sheer sides – quite an awesome spectacle. We turned up into Wakhana Bay and were wowed by the sheltered bay in her inner reaches. Kayaked to the river that has been restored to a salmon-bearing stream after years of destructive logging. 

Open net salmon farm just around the corner from Lacy Falls

 

Recent rains contributed to the splendour of Lacy Falls

Hanging Mists over Tribune Channel

Woke up next morning to find we had a dragged a little – but uphill so the anchor had been well reset before we reached shore. However a bit too close to shore for comfort and the tide was still falling. We had not set the anchor properly in the dead calm bay – and the wind had piped up during the night and the anchor dragged before setting – Lesson learned.

We were able to sail most of the way to Kwatsi Bay – doing 6-7 knots on the jenny. Crossing the tribune Channel we got the full force of the northwesterly on the beam. Can see how the channel could really kick up during a prolonged blow. Moored at Kwatsi Bay Marina. There was a potluck supper planned for July 01. We contributed a pan of potato/onion/sweet potato roasties. The owners and hosts Max and Anka provided a large roasted turkey. It was a lovely feast shared with about 20-25 other mariners. Before supper we dinghied over to take the trail to the waterfall – another glorious Broughton offering.

 

July 01 Potluck at Kwatsi Bay Marina - not fancy but a very special place

Next day we were heading for Port Harvey and left before the start of the flood but with the wind behind us were able to motor-sail at 6 knots as we continued east then south on Tribune Channel. Winds picked up by noon and we experience a strong westerly wind as we crossed Knight Inlet, which was mostly on our nose. However, once inside Chatham Channel there was great shelter and we transited easily. We continued on to Port Harvey motor-sailing all the way. Winds blowing in from the Johnstone Strait were easily 25 knots with quite a bit of wind reaching the dock. We moored safely with lots of help and signed up for pizza night and cinnamon buns for breakfast. Port Harvey - $1:15/ft but no toilets and no showers.

Return trip to Refuge Cove – 53 nm

We chose different stopping off points on our way home, anchoring in Forward Harbour the first night and in Shoal Bay the second night. Forward Harbour is a lovely place to anchor. Enjoyed a walk on the beach and took the trail through the forest. Had a long kayak the following morning as we waited for slack at Whirlpool Rapids. Went through Whirlpool Rapids a half hour before slack then high tailed it for Green Point Rapids – 11 nm further on. Wanted to get there at least 2 hours before max current. Around Grismond Point the current really picked up and boat speed went from 6 to 8 knots. Not much turbulence but this is quite a long stretch of rapids, and flood current continued until we were past Codero Islands with boat speed reaching a max of 9 knots - this on a relatively low tidal exchange.  We continued on the Shoal Bay – a delightful place with a pub, government dock (we anchored) and showers! We enjoyed our showers and were treated to quite the spectacle as a large grizzly bear roamed the shoreline close to the pub. Not a great situation for the owners, as the bear seemed very unconcerned by barking dogs and an air-horn. Eventually it was persuaded to retreat back into the forest.

Pub at Shoal Bay

 

Sea Reach anchored at Shoal Bay

The following day we transited Dent Rapids, Gillard Passage and Yucluta one after the other. Decided to use Tugboat passage between Little Dent and Dent Island as we were going through on low water slack (current and whirlpools set up more quickly when going from low to high water). Worked well – quite a bit of boiling and swirling north of the island even within 10 minutes of slack water. Went through Gillard at slack and Yuculta was an easy transit. These are three rapids that can be run together handily, especially on a flood tide going south as slack in each one occurs slightly later as you go south on a flood. The wind filled in around Calm Channel and we were able to sail without the motor for 2 hours – bliss J

We motored for the final hour to reach Refuge Cove and have the anchor set by 2000. 

Had a layover day in Refuge Cove – did laundry, had showers, got groceries. Awesome cinnamon buns and an excellent sockeye burger at local restaurant. We also had a kayak out the bay and around Hope Point. Saw a deer swim across between two islands the bay.

 

Log Tow in Codero Channel

Refuge Cove to False Creek 102 nm

We had never stopped at Lund before, so decided to do the short 10 nm run there and see this well loved stopping off point. Unfortunately the SE winds set in and we motor sailed against 15-25 knot wind. The main sail provided us with about half a knot of extra speed. Still we poked along between 4-5 knots once the wind increased. 

The harbour at Lund is nice but very busy – rafting is mandatory. We squeezed into a spot with our bow a couple of feet forward of the end of the dock. A Bavaria 37’ rafted up to us later that afternoon. We had lunch at the iconic Lund Hotel, now under First Nations ownership. Lovely atmosphere, good service and food. We watched the quarter final between Russia and Croatia – Croatia winning in a shoot out – quite a thrilling match.

 

Lund Boat Harbour and hotel

Our next stop was Sturt Bay on Texada Island. We chose Texada based on the wind so that we could do some sailing. We anchored out in Sturt Bay and kayaked into the dock. The Wharfinger very kindly gave us a ride to the restaurant. Next day we headed for Buccanneer Bay, 29 nm further south. The SE winds continued to make pure sailing difficult so we motor sailed and were glad we had our main sail up as the seas became very choppy later in the afternoon. We had a relatively pleasant ride but saw other sailboats without any sail up being bucked about by the waves. We arrived at Buccaneer Bay just before 1600. Another new anchorage for us. We chose the anchorage on the NE side of Surrey Islands. Navionics showed an islet in yellow – which was almost completely covered at high tide – should have been posted as green – quite confusing. A tight anchorage – we were anchored between the tidal islet and another point with a rock close to shore. The islet was home to 8 seals that snorted and swam around it keeping an eye on us. At 0300 the wind came up from the NW blowing into the anchorage at about 20 knots. When our boat turned the anchor dragged before resetting very close to the other rock. The wind woke us up and when we saw our proximity to land we kept an anchor watch until 4:30, then pulled anchor and left as soon as it was light enough. Not likely to use that anchorage again (:  - Smuggler Cove a much better option.

 

Charted Islet behind Surrey Islands barely visible at high tide

We arrived at Selma Bay at 0600 and anchored behind the gravel conveyor – getting some shelter from the breakwater off the small boat dock. It was too shallow –plus full for us to use the dock. We went back to sleep until 0900. Got up and had second breakfast, then called Mina and Bill. Bill came and collected us and we visited with them for the day. The local Baha’i Community were gathered at their home for the Commemoration of the Martyrdom of The Bab so it was lovely to be able to join them for that. 

Next morning we waited for the expected Northwester to set in. Finally the wind in our favour.  The wind blew us down the coast, sailing all the way. Seas were very choppy with both wave height and wind increasing in the afternoon. Winds rose to 20-25 knots. We reduced sail and let Sea Reach do her thing – sailing at a controlled 5 knots in short steep waves. We decided to round the back of Keats Island rather than go through Shoal Bay. We had a lovely sail through Barfleur Passage and picked up a mooring buoy at Plumper Marine Park. We love this stop. Walked to Keats landing and back – had a swim – a perfect day!

We had intended staying an extra day at Plumper but received word from Molly and Nessan (John’s niece and nephew from Ireland) that they were in Vancouver and could meet us for lunch on Friday. We left Plumper early Thursday afternoon with low tides and high winds. We opted to go round the back of Keats Island again. We had a lovely sail to Vancouver and put out the whisker pole on the jenny, sailing wing on wing once we cleared Bowen Island running at 6 knots all the way to the inner portion of English Bay – then doused the sail before entering False Creek. The next four days were layover days, anchored at False Creek – visiting with Nessan and Molly, Barb Angel at Spruce Harbour and David and Marilyn. John got new valves for the bilge pump and successfully got that going again. We also went to an open-air concert of the Vancouver Orchestra on Sunset Beach with Marilyn and David. July 13 was a very low of .3 ft leaving just 2 feet below our keel. Important when anchoring at False Creek to make sure you anchor in water deep enough to accommodate the tide change as it is quite shallow in there. 

False Creek now has a FREE mobile pumpout. We were able to hail them as they cruised around and they came immediately to pump out the holding tank. Very impressive.

Nessan and Molly hanging out on Sea Reach

A Free mobile pumpout is now available at False Creek

That was the end of our summer cruising. We went to haul out at Lynn Creek in North Vancouver to have the rudder checked as water ingress noted during a recent survey. Five weeks out and another 487 nm under the keel with lots of new anchorages and marinas explored.

We only got a taste of the Broughtons and will definitely return there. So much more to explore.