Summer Sailing 2017 - Lazy Days on the Salish Sea

A hot dry July provided near perfect conditions for cruising the Salish Sea this year.
We were delighted to welcome my brother, Andrew, and sister, Margaret, on board for a week during our July cruising. We planned a trip from Nanaimo across to the Sunshine Coast, up to Cortes Island and back to give them a taste of both short and longer day trips with a combination of anchorages, paddling and hiking possibilities. Were treated to very favourable winds, beautiful weather and trouble free sailing. Both mother nature and Sea Reach on their best behaviour! Despite having covered this sea route many times before, got a chance to check out a few new places for us, proving once again that we live in cruising grounds with near infinite possibilities for exploration. We are truly blessed.
 - Enjoy!

Update Summer 2017 – Lazy Days on the Salish Sea

 

Port Graves - Gambier Island

July 02

Set off from Squamish at 1400 with strong inflow winds coming up Howe Sound. Had brisk sailing, tacking up Howe Sound until 1800 hours when winds died down. Put on engine and headed to Port Graves on Gambier Island. This was our first time in Port Graves. A long inlet but well worth the extra distance. Excellent anchorage at the head of the bay in sandy, good holding, with lots of room. Will come for a long weekend sometime to explore on kayaks.

July 03

Started 0800 – sailed with 2 reefs and 100% jenny. Sea quite choppy but made approx.. 6 knots. Could not make entrance to Nanaimo on single tack – got ½ way up Gabriola Island, then did two short tacks to clear entrance Island. As wind died down we put on engine and motored to Newcastle Island. Paid for two nights moorage. Will be picking up Andrew and Margaret evening of July 04.

 

Margaret and Andrew

July 04 – Layover day at Newcastle Island

Collected some groceries, had lunch at the Dinghy Dock on Protection Island. Met Andrew and Margaret at 5 p.m. at the Thrifty store on Nanaimo and brought them back to Sea Reach. Had Persian dinner – courtesy of Mina – was so delicious!

 

Crossing the Salish Sea

July 05 - Newcastle Island to Smuggler’s Cove 24nm

Beautiful sailing conditions – nice winds and good sea state. Made 6 knots most of the way across Strait of Georgia. Got just north of Trail Islands – then turned on engine to go north to Smugglers Cove  as winds lightened. Went for a walk along the boardwalk and on to Frenchman’s Cove. Saw 2 beavers on the way home in the swampy area of the Marine Park –munching on water plants.

Went for late evening kayak as the sun was setting. Had the spicy turkey sausages with potatoes, carrots and corn for supper – very tasty.

July 06 - Smuggler’s Cove to Garden Bay 12 nm

Had a slow leisurely sail under jenny only – allowing a following wind push us up to Pender Harbour at 3-4 knots under glorious sunshine – no worries.

Anchored in Garden Bay area. Had lunch and a siesta – then a dinghy ride over to Madeira Park for a walk and an ice-cream (memories of Mel). Margaret and Andrew went for a kayak later in the evening and John and Ger played some music.

 

Kayaking in Garden Bay

July 07 - Garden Bay to Westview Marina 24nm

An unusual blow from the southeast provided excellent downwind sailing for us as we headed up the Malaspina Strait. Normally we are battling our way north against northwesterlies – fortunate to have a wonderful sail to Westview Marina at 6-7 knots – first on a broad reach and then dead downwind wing on wing and poled out.

Westview was pretty full as most boats heading south had stayed put. We were lucky to get a berth across from the coastguard vessel on finger 9. Westview is a great place to stop – 85 cents/ft – showers/toilets/water/electricity and lots of stores and restaurants within walking distance. Also – the Seawall – perfect for an evening walk. Beware showers on south dock – only some loonies work. Had a lovely meal out at Coastal Cookery Pub Restauarant.

 

Enroute to Cortes Bay with Desolation Sound in background

July 08 - Westview to Cortes Bay 22nm

Beautiful sunny day – calm seas- no wind. Drove to the Copeland Islands and dropped the hook on the west side between first two islands . Very close to shore – required a watch – but time for a leisurely lunch – swim plus kayak. Fast moving motor yacht on outside created quite a wash after lunch – stretching the anchor to within feet of shoreline. Weighed Anchor and headed for Cortes Bay – arriving at 1600.

Copeland Islands beautiful – very little swing room – best for lunchtime hook – with a watch for change of weather.

Cortes Bay delightful – anchored off RVYC outstation where the holding ground is reputedly good – mud/sand bottom. Had a walk on shore and refreshing swim.

Weather incredible – time for a Bar-B-Q – supper scalloped potatoes, corn and bean burgers.

 

Entry to Gorge Harbour

July 09 - Cortes Bay to Gorge Harbour 14 nm

Started under motor – put sails up at Sutil Point and sailed most of the way to entrance at Gorge Harbour. Depths in the harbor deeper than charted. We anchored in 45 feet of water at half tide in an area charted as 18 feet. Went ashore for some groceries and to check e-mail. ice settlement. Very poor cel coverage.

Downwind sail enroute to Lasqueti Island

July 10 - Gorge Harbour to Lasqueti Island 47 nm

Excellent downwind sail – 6 knots all the way to Lasqueti Island. First time there. Nice anchorage. Small sleepy settlement. Got some nice baking at local coffee shop. Mags got out on the kayak for a late evening paddle. There is a “free store” a short walk from the public dock – the ultimate Thrift Store. Nice community touch. Met a sailor on an Endurance 39’ at the anchorage . He had sailed around Ireland, Scotland – across the Caribbean and through the Panama Canal up to Canada. Is now living and cruising here – best sailing grounds in the world in his opinion. I think he may be right.

 

Free Store at Lasqueti Island - a nice community touch

July 11 - Lasqueti to Nanaimo Harbour 30nm

A light following wind allowed us to sail about half the distance before putting on the engine to complete the trip. Whiskey Golf was not active so no problems transiting there. Another beautiful day. A lollygaggy day, sailing at 3-4knots but happy to be gliding silently through the water. Had to wait 30 minutes to get a chance to fuel up at Nanaimo and were lucky to get aslip. Had a wonderful meal at the “Modern Café” in Nanaimo.

Said goodbye to Mags and Andrew before leaving the dock at 1030. We had a great week of cruising together with near perfect conditions and not a drop of rain.

 

“Modern Café” in Nanaimo

July 12 - Nanaimo to Clam Bay 17nm

Left Nanaimo at 1030 and headed for Dodds Narrows going through about I hour before slack with the current. Just as well. There was a flotilla on the other side waiting for slack. Never saw so many boats waiting to go through a pass. Anchored at Clam Bay and had a lovely kayak to Telegraph Harbour and around the bay.

July 13 - Clam Bay to Fulford Harbour 23nm

Motor sailed with some pure sailing enroute to Fulford Harbour. Fulford harbor shallows quickly inside ferry berthing area. Chose middle of shoaling Bay and anchored at 25’ at low tide leaving 200 feet between us and the ferry turning point. Good anchorage but not a lot of room due to long stretch of drying shoreline.

First time to Fulford Harbour. Funky little village with nice restaurant and vegan bakery/coffee shop. Got bus into Ganges. Met with realtor Susan Stein who showed us some properties. Waterfront very expensive on Salt Spring Island. Best location is probably in Long Harbour but quite high bank so access to waterfront challenging.

(yeah – we’re looking at the Gulf Islands as a possibility to move to).

 

Otter Bay Anchorage

July 14/15 Otterbay on Pender Island

Made the short trip to Pender Island and anchored at Otter Bay. Nice anchorage in lovely bay. The Marina is impressive with pool and recreational amenities. Met with Sherrie Boyte on Sunday at 1100 tand went with her to see several properties. We are trying to get a feel for the Gulf Island with a view to making a move there –maybe. Contacted Jim and Andrea Cribb, Baha’is living on Pender and spent the evening visiting them.

 July 16 /17/Mayne Island

Headed to Mayne Island on July 16 and anchored at Village Bay. Anchored north of the large red hulled sailing boat that s permanently moored there. Important to stay clear of the mooring buoys – very little swing room.

Motored to Horton Bay next morning and spent a lovely day there at anchor, kayaking to Bennet Bay for lunch. Fabulous area for kayaking. Horton Bay has quite a bit of current running through it. Entry requires caution, especially at maximum tidal flow.

 

Kayaking in Bennet Bay area - Mayne Island

July 18 Horton Bay to Hope Bay 3nm

Later in the afternoon, we decided to move back to Pender Island to take a second look at one of the property on Armadale. Picked up a mooring buoy at Hope Bay but later moved to the public dock. Local knowledge suggested that mooring buoy had not been checked in 2017 –also current was causing buoy to bump against the hull. Next morning, Sherrie Boyt brought breakfast for us as we took an early viewing of the property. Beautiful property but we decided that the sea access was too limited and shoreline rough and unprotected.

 

Sea Reach at anchor in False Creek - Vancouver

July 19 –Hope Bay to False Creek – 40 nm

Left Hope Bay at 1030 and motored across to Georgson Passage. Tide had turned from low tide to flood. We arrived at Georgson Island about 2 hours after turn to flood with a current pushing us through at 2 knots. We decided based on charts to exit on the south side of Georgeson Island where passage seemed to have more depth. We scraped the keel off a rock as we angled our way through a narrow awkward passage between the reef. Gave us a bit of a fright but short lived. Note to crew – only transit by Georgeson Island close to high tide – otherwise use Active Pass. Need a 10’ tide to be safe and will only use boat passage on north side of island.

Had a nice sail across to Vancouver but quite a bit of traffic to watch for as we were in shipping lanes for a good chunk of the time – plus crossing ferry routes. We were able to sail in past Spanish Banks before taking down the sails in English Bay. 12 tankers at anchor. Very busy with recreational boats all the way into False Creek. Got anchoring permit online. We anchored just east of Spruce Harbour Marina. Depths are fairly shallow in False Creek. Over the 3 days at anchor we experienced some very low tides Depth below keel at lowest tide was only 2 feet!

 

Floating Homes -False Creek

July 19-22 - False Creek

We found several places to tie up dinghy for a couple of hours. Tied up by Tap and Barrel by Heather Civic Marina (can get your anchoring permit there).We got ours online. An easy process with no fees.  Showers available at Creekside Recreation in Athletes Village. Lovely area with restaurants and an Urban Fare Grocery. Visited with Barb Angel from Spruce Harbour Marina. Showers also available at False Creek Community Centre on Granville Island. Public dinghy and boat dock available in front of G.I. Public Market for 3 hours.

False Creek Yacht Club hosts the Boaters Welcome Centre. We took the dinghy over to check it out and were met by Richard, host and wharfinger. Richard came out to greet us with an umbrella in hand to protect himself from the constant spray of droppings from the colony of cormorants who have taken up occupancy under Granville Street Bridge. They had created a terrible mess and stink in the area. The docks are power washed daily to remove the excrement. That man deserves a medal!  

He confirmed that Squamish Yacht Club does have reciprocal moorage with them so we could have moored there for one free night and paid $1:25/ft for subsequent nights. Free pump outs at Heather Civic Marina and FCYC and Burrard Civic Marina. BCM has easiest access for larger vessels.

Muireann visits Sea Reach 

While in Vancouver we met up with both Muireann and Cian who were visiting Vancouver from Ireland. It was fun being on our boat in the heart of the city. We took in the amazing screening of “Uninterrupted” at Cooper’s Park, a cinematic summer art installation – 25 minute video projected on the undersurface of the bridge showing the journey of sockeye salmon to their spawning grounds. We also went for dinner and a movie – “Dunkirk”. I’m not usually a fan of war movies but this one is excellent. An accurate and cinematically striking account of the Dunkirk evacuation during World WarII - from the point of view of land, sea and sky. No Hollywood hype - just gritty, detailed account of quiet desperation of thousands stranded on beach like sitting ducks and the determined efforts of a fleet of civilian sailors who crossed the Channel to help evacuate them safely. When we returned to Sea Reach, we wondered how many we could have brought onboard – somewhere between 20-30 depending on conditions, perhaps?  Dunkirk took place May 27- June 04, 1940, so the Channel was likely choppy enough. Would we have had the courage to make the trip and risk our own lives to save others?