We left Paradise
Marina, NV, Mexico on May 08 and arrived in Radio bay, Hilo on June 01, on our
25th day of passage making.
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| Sea Reach crew; John, Ger, Mel - Tahnoo crew; Ken, Bill and Mel - ready to kick butt on the high seas |
Day 01 May 08
Left the marina at 0930 with the crew togged out in Sea
Reach polo shirts - full of excitement and anticipation. Motor sailed towards
the SW side of the Marietas with our buddy boat, Tahnoo close by. One hour out,
the stuffing box stopped dripping and the shaft started to overheat. We turned
off the engine and Mel, our magical mender of all things come undone,
re-adjusted it to produce a stronger drip. Decided to motor 1-2 hours to
ascertain all was well. As soon as we cleared the Marietas and Banderas Bay area,
we turned off the engine sailing under full sail at 5 knots.
A stressful start to the passage but confident that we can
cope with the stuffing box issue and in any case will be sailing most if not all
of the way to Hawaii.
Managed to make radio contact with Pacific Seafarers Net tonight
and gave them our coordinates to plot. John also had success getting GRIB files
down so we felt our communication system was well established for position and
weather.
Day 02 May 09
Day started with great promise with 13-15 knots but slowed
right down by afternoon and evening. Sea Reach doing 4 K or less. Seas were
also very choppy. Still in the Sea of Cortez so getting confused seas. Total nm
94. Ger got sick!
Day 03 May 10
Staying in good contact with Tahnoo by VHF. Not always
within sight but usually within 10 nm of each other. Tahnoo caught a tuna today.
Orders from the quarter master that there will be no fishing from Sea Reach
until we have exhausted our fresh meat supplies. Sea Reach only has a very
small ice box all the rest is refrigerator space.
Seas still quite rough and winds came up to 19-23 k. We put
a reef in the main and Sea Reach did 7 k for most of the night. Should probably
have put another reef in but not keen on working on deck at night so waited for
morning light. By then the crew was really tired as no one had slept well. Before
breakfast, reefed her well down so that we could have a nice easy motion for a
few hours to recuperate. Now doing 3-4 knots but we are all quite content with
this pace. Have covered 136 nm in the past the 24 hours.
Day 04 May 11
At 0900 noticed a diesel smell. Major searching done to
source the smell. Picture this on a boat loaded to the gunnels! One of the
diesel intake pipes had leaked slightly in the heavy seas and with a full
supply of diesel on board. Major tightening of all hose clamps throughout the
boat. Food had to be removed from lockers during this procedure. Everyone
feeling nauseous for a finish but leak sealed and several other clamps also
tightened as a precautionary measure. Some ingress of salt water into the forward
port locker in the V-Berth. Seems to be finding a pathway through the air vent
which needs to be re-seated. Only a problem during rough conditions. Will fix
when we get to Hawaii and monitor in the meantime.
Sail plan altered to 2 head sails and a double reef in the
main. Very smooth sailing making close to 6 k. For supper we have a brisket in
tomato sauce with onions, celery and noodles. Fried plantain for dessert. Very
delicious. We are starting to get our sea legs and watch routine down. 128 nm
covered in past 24 hours.
Day 05 May 12
No contact with PSN last night . Jay Bigland is our weather
guru and has been sending us dispatches through our winlink on a daily basis.
This combined with John’s downloading of GRIB files is keeping us well informed
of the weather. Jay is our Big picture guy and is helping us decide our
headings to catch the best winds and avoid any impending weather problems.
Fruits and vegetables still holding up well. I have wrapped fruits and
vegetables in cloth in the bilge and this is working very well. Heard today
that Ken on Tahnoo had cracked some ribs. Very unfortunate.
Cooking while underway definitely has its challenges.
We had to put the engine on at 2100 as winds have softened.
GRIB files have predicted soft winds for the next few days. Bummer!
Day 06 May 13
Engine on for 5 hours last night but turned it off at 0130.
Sailing under light winds using the autohelm.
Passing Clarion Island about 15 miles to our starboard. These are
Mexican owned islands some 400 miles out in the Pacific. There is a coast guard
and research station posted here. It will be our last sight of land until we
reach Hawaii. We did not expect to be
this far south but decided to head south to pick up the trades a little
earlier. Very calm seas right now, making about 4.5 k. Calm enough for a pancake
breakfast and time to clean the cabin salon. It’s all about making the most of
what the wind and seas throw at you. Go like hell when the wind is up and relax
and reorganize when the wind dies down.
Received contact from Tahnoo. Their alternator has packed it
in! They are going to monitor the electrical situation for the next 24 hours
and see if they can proceed on solar and wind power.
Day 07 May 14
Motored for 6 hours last night – probably too much. Couldn’t
hear Tahnoo on the VHF this morning. Contacted them using Mel’s Sat phone. They
are 25 nm east of us. They need to replace their alternator. We have a spare on
board and Mel and John in conversation with Bill and Tahnoo’s Mel try to figure
out if ours will work for them. A plan is conceived and hatched and we pick a
Lat and Long to rendezvous so that we can give them our spare alternator.
Fortunately the weather is really calm right now. At 1300 we make visual contact with Tahnoo
again. Mel and John prepare a package in a dry bag for them, surround it with
floating cushions and put the lot in a large net bag. We float it back to them
on a long propylene line. This works very well. They retrieve the bag, take out
the parts and send us back the bag with a baked banana bread and bottle of
pomegranate juice inside. Nice! Picture this 500 miles out to sea. The sea is
amazingly calm and a deep blue. We drift around while Tahnoo tries to replace
the alternator. Time for a luxuriant dip in the ocean and then a cleansing
solar shower on deck. This is definitely a highlight to remember.
Tahnoo still needs some extra bits and bobs to complete the
replacement. We have necessary items on Sea Reach. This time Ger does a drive
by as navy operatives Mel and John launch themselves from Sea Reach and swim to
Tahnoo with a bastard file and a couple of 6 “ bolts. Somebody should be
videoing this!! Another rather expert
drive by is done for the pick up of the operatives who once again swim from
Tahnoo to Sea Reach.
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| Dry bag with alternator and floatation |
Day 08 - May 15
Well – the new alternator does work but only for 1 hour
before packing it in. Something more sinister afoot with the electrical system
on Tahnoo. All sorts of problem solving
go on between the 2 Mels but to no avail. Tahnoo decides that they will
continue on if we can provide radio communication for them and weather updates.
We will stick within VHF range of each other for the rest of the trip. This we
all agree to and the ultimate buddy boat expedition begins. This expedition
will involve several games and challenges between the crews to entertain each
other on the passage – starting with a some songs composed and sung by crew of
Sea Reach over the VHF channel 72 to Tahnoo about the journey thus far!
New weather report states that a storm is brewing south of
us and Jay suggests we hike to the NW to stay out of its path. WE both hike
north as fast as our sails will carry us.
Even though we start off on the same heading both using our
windvanes we end up quite far apart by morning. Tahnoo is further north than
us. We decide on a convergence path. This will be a pattern that will continue
as we passage west but it all works quite well by keeping regular radio contact
and updating each other our positions. We remain in visual contact with each
other most of the time. Storm get’s a name – Alvin.
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| Buddy boat Tahnoo |
Day 09 – May 16
Sea Reach crew is having quite a bit of difficulty balancing
sails and getting the windvane to respond within a prescribed range to parallel
Tahnoo. Much perseverance required and changing of sail plans. Hard on the crew,
especially those who serve before the mast. Rendezvous once again with Tahnoo
in mid afternoon. Tahnoo decide that SR will be the stand on boat and they will
follow her. That way we can alert them of any traffic. They are not using their
AIS at night and are conserving their electricity. Also not using SSB. They use
their handheld VHF with batteries at night to stay in touch with us. Tropical
storm Alvin is 500 miles SE of us and traveling at 11nm/h. It’s expected to
veer north before reaching us. We stow and lash some potential hazards just in
case. Mel contacts a friend by Sat phone to get latest updates and predictions.
John doing a great job getting the GRIB files down and Jay doing an awesome job
with his daily e-mail updates. We pass all info on to Tahnoo. John also cc’s a
daily report to Tahnoo’s loved ones at home.
Feels like we have reached the trades. Winds are steadier
and now at 12-15k. Sea Reach really liking this downwind/reaching and its much
easier to set the windvane.
Day 10 – May 17
Sea Reach skipping along enjoying the trade winds, reaching
slightly ahead of the beam, her favorite position. Made banana pancakes for
breakfast. We have all been suffering from tiredness – due to complications and
stresses of last few days but now things are on a more even keel, hopefully we
will all soon be replenished.
Made 120 nm in past 24 hours.
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| Dawn from the cockpit of Sea Reach looking back to the east |
Day 11 – May 18
Reached the 1000 nm mile stage. Challenged Tahnoo to compose
and sing a song for us about reaching the 1000nm mark – which they did! We are
so impressed and design and make a special award ribbon to present to them when
we reach Hilo!
Today the seas were very boisterous as forecast – large,
lumpy and a bit confused (or maybe it’s just a confused crew). Had quite a bit
of difficulty getting a sail plan that would work for our Hydrovane, “WINDY.”
Late afternoon the winds increase to 18 k. We finally decided to try our storm
Tri-sail and 80% of our Genoa. It worked (go figure) and Windy finally settled
into the job heading more west than north, we settled in for a night of fast sailing at 6+k. Having difficulty
getting through to PSN these past few days. Thankfully, Johnny having good luck
with winlink and GRIBS.
Tried making scones in the frying pan today as flow of gas
not very good and can’t heat the oven sufficiently. Worked quite well and crew
gave them the thumbs up.
Day 12 – May 19
It’s my sister, Carmel’s birthday today. Phoned her by Sat phone to
wish her a Happy Birthday from the mid Pacific. She was quite thrilled. Today’s
challenge was to make up Limericks. Each Limerick had to contain the words Sea
Reach, Tahnoo, Hilo and Hawaii. The crew of both vessels each compose a
Limerick and recite over our local channel 72 the verses to each other. What a
hoot!
Sea Reach and Tahnoo
on the 8th day of May
Set sail for adventure
out of Banderas Bay.
Hawaii, sounds nice
shout the crew in accord.
Let’s head to Hilo!
Keep the wind to
starboard.
A very squally night. We slewed back and forth with 3 reefs
in the main. Seas very rough. No opportunity to relax during the night watch.
Constantly re-jigging Windy.
Day 13 – May 20
Today is a Baha’i Holy Day – Commemoration of the
declaration of The Bab. Mel joins us as we commemorate the day with sacred
music, prayers and reading of the address of the Bab to the Letters of the
Living – His first disciples.
The afternoon brightens up. Sun much needed to keep our
batteries up with solar power. John rigs up the solar shower for me so that I
can wash my hair in the cockpit.
Composed a ballad for Tahnoo.
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| Isla Clarion |
The Banderas Bay
Ballad – (Sung to the tune of Percy French’s – Are You Right There Michael
Are You Right.)
You may talk of Columbus’
sailing,
Across the Atlantical Sea.
But he never tried to
go sailing –
With Sea Reach, Tahnoo
and me.
We started out smartly
on May 08th
Straight out into
Banderas Bay.
And there for an hour
we did wait –
For a stuffing box to
operate.
The drip was too weak
to mention,
But Mel soon took care
of that.
And then we sailed
past the Marietas –
Tahnoo’s crew shouted
– At Last!
Chorus:
Are you right there
mateys are you right – arrgh arrgh!
Do you think that
we’ll make Hilo by the night.
Four more weeks we
will require,
For Sea Reach she is
no flyer.
And you’re right now
matey’s you are right – arrgh arrgh!
Clarion Island, she
shone like a jewel.
She’s the last spot on
Mexico’s shore.
‘Til you get to the
Isles of Hawaii,
You will not see land
anymore.
It was there that
Tahnoo cried a warning.
“Our alternator seems
to be shot.”
“Don’t worry old
mateys,” cried Sea Reach.
We’ll soon have you
out of this spot.
Sure we have two more
in our quarter.
Perhaps one will do as
a fix.
So we floated the
parts in the water-
And Tahnoo picked up
all the little bits.
Chorus:
Are you right there
matey’s are you right – arrgh arrgh!
Can you get the alternator
there to light –
Your batteries and
your fridge
Your SSSB to get the
GRIBS
And it might now
mateys it just might – Arrgh Arrgh!
Well the days rolled on and on.
And the crews took to
jesting and song.
Some old Limericks and
weird competitions,
Kept both crews all
jollied along.
The seas were at times
all roily,
And boily and churning
with zest.
But Sea Reach and
Tahnoo like two stallions,
Galloped over the
waves to the West.
Chorus;
Are you right there
matey’s are you right – arrgh arrgh!
The halfway point will
soon be in our sights.
Hilo point we want to
make it.
Too far north – we
will forsake it.
And we’ll never reach
beautiful Hawaii------
Honalulu, Sea Reach
and Tahnoo
Are going to
Honalulu!!
Day 14 – May 21st
Today we expect to reach the halfway point. We are all very
excited. Our past 5 days have logged 120+nm days so we are making up for the
time lost while Tahnoo was attempting repairs. We are hopeful that now we are
in the trades that our passage will continue like this all the way to Hilo.
Mel wrote the halfway cheering song that we bellowed into
channel 72 at the exact halfway point – 1401 nm, achieved at 1630.
Halfway Song – to tune of (What shall we do with the drunken
sailor)
What shall we do when
we get to Hilo
What shall we do when
we get to Hilo
What shall we do when
we get to Hilo
1400 miles—
Hooray – We’re halfway
there
Hooray – we’re halfway
there
Hooray – we’re halfway
there
On our way to Hilo
Hey!
Tuna melt for lunch. Apple, walnut and celery salad. That was
the last of the celery. Did some downwind sailing today which was very
pleasant.
Day 15 – May 22nd
Very cloudy day today. Have not put on the water-maker.
Charging up the computers instead. The windvane continues to be very difficult
to operate. Large effort being expended trying to balance the sail plan and
adjust as necessary. This afternoon finally got a plan that is working well. Of
course will only last as long as the seas and wind remain in their present
orientation. Considering using autohelm more and topping up the batteries each
night with one hour of motoring.
Mel did a bunch of washing today so our lifelines are
festooned at the moment. Fatigue continues to be a constant companion. Fresh
produce starting to run out. Lots of food – but menu might start to get boring
pretty soon. Had the last potion of fresh chicken for supper today. This
evening made contact with PSN. Great to get through after 5 days without
reception. Had a quick relay from Jay. John sent e-mails off to family members
with an update on position.
Day 16 – May 23rd
Today was completely overcast in the morning with very
threatening skies. We got hit by a number of squalls with winds up to 30k. Ran
before them with main under 3rd reef. Seas very boisterous and
swells of 9 feet. We got separated from Tahnoo during the squalls but came back
into visual range by the evening. Windvane just not handling the seas. Decided
to put on the autohelm and run the engine when the batteries go below 65%. Auto
– doing a fine job. Squalls settle down
in afternoon but wind continues up to 20k into the evening. The sea is both
vigorous and menacing. Falling overboard is NOT an option!
Had a game of scrabble with John in the p.m. Playing the
travel harp which I brought along is a lost cause on the passage – just too
much going on and the conditions unsuitable.
Autohelm starting to make a thumping sound. Mel discovered a loose nut that needed
tightening. (although there my be other issues)
Winds of 20+ are now the new normal.
Day 17 – May 24th
20k winds all day today with 2 squalls coming through during
the day. One dumped rain on the boat as it marched over us. Some nice fresh
water to help clean off all that salt. We tried fishing today for the first
time but no success. We expect to be down to our last 1000nm by tomorrow
morning. Yipee! These winds and weather are expected to continue over the next
few days which will help us move in a straight line to Hilo. We went back to
using the windvane today at 2100. So far so good!
Day 18 – May 25th
20 k winds again today with some squalls marching through.
We would all like to shower but outside conditions not conducive to that right
now. The upside to the high winds is that we are making good progress.
Completed 130nm in last 24hours.
Big glitch today – the pressure bringing the gas to the
stove dropped dramatically -
just as I was making supper. Half of it was warm and the
rest was served cold. Not sure how and if we will be able to solve the problem.
Mel and John go to the nautical bible – Calder – hmmm fingers crossed.
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| Rainbow after squalls |
Day 19 – May 26th
This morning got one burner to light at a low level. Decided
to work with this as best we can. Winds too strong to use the bar-b-que. Sun
came out for several hours this morning. We all put on our shorts again hoping
to have a shower in the afternoon. We phoned both Jonathan and Regan. While on
the phone with Jonathan we caught a tuna! Great excitement. First fish we have
caught on Sea Reach. This one was timely as no fresh meat left – down to tinned
spam, chicken and tuna. He was a beauty – about 10 lbs. A shame to kill such a
beautiful creature but thankful for the bounty he provided. We had some pan-fried
tuna with potatoes and veggies for dinner, all done on our one weak burner –
but it worked and was very tasty.
Mel and John re-aligned ‘Windy’ today and he is working much
better now, correcting well when pushed to windward by gusts – a great bonus!
This will make our last week at sea much less stressful and tiring for the
crew.
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| Tuna caught on day 19 |
Day 20 – May 27
A promising day with the sun in the morning but still
chilly. John and Mel broke down and had a seawater shower using the wash-down
pump in the cockpit, rinsing off with fresh water from a bottle. Ger hung
tough. Later in the afternoon, John rigged up the solar shower in the cockpit
and Ger had a wonderful warm shower. Bliss! Had fresh tuna casserole for supper
– very tasty. Also made some dainties from a mixture of melted chocolate,
cereal, chopped apricots, walnuts and coconut. Yum! Winds 20k throughout the
day on boisterous seas. This is definitely the most vigorous portion of the
trip. Several rain showers and squalls.
Day 21 – May 28th
A somewhat calmer day today – no squalls and winds around
14-18k. Seas are starting to settle which is a welcome relief. Makes for a much
more pleasant motion – not being swung off the ends of rollers and getting side
swiped from errant waves.
Out Lat is now 21° 40 and Hilo is 19° 44 – so we are quite high of our
mark. Making westward progress well but getting pushed northward. Finally
decide to change tack and head SW. We will re-evaluate in 24 hours. Came in
contact with one other sailing vessel today – “Lively” enroute from Los Angeles
to Hilo. A single hander in a 34’ Sabre. Don’t know how these single handers do
it.
We ate the last of the bread today. We have one more packet
of tortilla shells and that’s it for bread products. Have flour and would bake
if the gas supply was strong enough but it’s not. Supper tonight is a chicken
and spam pasta with cheese sauce.
Day 22 – May 29th
Less than 500nm left. We had the 500 mile challenge with
Tahnoo which was
“guess the famous person” game. We chose Leonard Cohen,
which they got but not as quickly as we thought they might. They chose - Mike Danielson (racer, sail maker and
weather forecaster in La Cruz, Mexico). Yeah – all round nice guy but hardly
famous. No – we didn’t get him. The admiralty was up in arms about the validity
of their choice. Ken from Tahnoo held forth to make their case insisting that
we all knew the guy – correct. (but that still doesn’t make him famous – hardly
a household name) No agreement was reached and a challenge was issued for a
spatula duel once Hilo is gained. Later that evening, Ken troubled by threat of
spatulacide and perhaps, even some remorse, invites crew of Sea Reach to dinner
on Tahnoo when we get to Hilo as a means of recompense and to avert the
impending duel. The admiralty is reviewing the proposal. A great days sailing
on Sea Reach with winds around 19k but the seas much less boisterous. ‘Windy’
also performing very well.
Day 23 – May 30th
Completed 137nm in last 24 hours. Beautiful day today. Skies
are blue, much less cloud cover, no squalls and winds at 15k. Really feeling
like we are in the last strokes now. Brenda, Bill’s wife, has already arrived
in Hilo. We e-mailed customs/immigration to alert them of our ETA on Sunday.
Brenda has also spoken with them. Tahnoo currently about 10 miles north of us
and 3 miles west. Our boats have slightly different optimal sailing points and
polars so it’s hard to get a sailing point that has us tracking parallel with
each other. But – it’s all good.
Perfect night – starry sky, fresh breeze, 14k and Sea Reach
galloping along at 6k.
Wind on her quarter makes for a smooth ride with waves of
6ft or less.
Day 24 – May 31st
170 miles left to go. The 100 mile challenge is a poem/song
using the name of Hawaii’s State fish – Huma huma nuka nuka ua pua’a
Here we go:
There’s a fish that
plies the waters off the coast of Hilo Bay
He’s not tasty or
delicious but his colours they are gay
By the shore of
spouting water
Also known as Wai Kai
Kai
You can see him in the
ocean
Swimming wild and
swimming free ---
(this next part is
sung -)
Humu humu
Nuka
Ua pua’a
Repeat 3 times – music
original - soon to be published.
A wonderful sunny day with gleaming sea and brisk winds. Sea
Reach is skipping along at 6k. ‘Windy’ is working well. Solar showers all round
and some washing of undies. Almost there – John has been in touch with
immigration officer, George Valdez. John sent in the preliminary info on crew
of both vessels. Officer Valdez will grant us shore leave after we arrive until
formal check in on Monday.
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| Sea wall entrance to Hilo Bay |
Day 25 – June 01
Our hope is to make landfall today between 2000 and 2100.
Tahnoo has decided to motor-sail the rest of the way to get there before
sunset. We have opted to keep the engine off for as long as possible long as we keep the boat speed up to 5k. Hilo
Bay has a well-marked entrance with lots of room between hazards so we should
be okay to enter at night. We will stay in radio contact with Tahnoo to get
details of their arrival. Arrived into Hilo Bay area at 2100 but had to slow
down and very cautiously make our final approach to Radio Bay. A lot of
competing lights. Hilo Airport and other points in the bay also lit up.
Electronic navigation helps us stay focused on the main navigational lights
that need to be confirmed. Radio Bay is smaller than we expect- a small dog leg
at tip of bay. Coast guard is stationed here. Tahnoo is already moored and sends
her dingy out with Mel and Ken aboard to help us do a Med-tie to the dock wall.
Sea Reach is firmly secured at 2230. Crew tired but very happy to be in Hilo,
Hawaii! Yipee!
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| Radio Bay, Hilo |
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