The Big Island
Radio Bay, Hilo, is a very laid back port of entry. We had
e–mailed ahead of time with our passport and crew details and answered a few
questions. As our anticipated arrival time was Saturday evening, the
immigration office allowed us shore-leave on Sunday and told us to report to
the office on Monday. It was great to be able to go ashore and walk to the
nearest small grocery/coffee shop for ice-cream and other essentials! The
facilities at Radio Bay consist of clean showers, power and water at the dock.
You have to do a Med-moor and because of the height of the dock wall need to
put the dinghy in the water to get to the ladders on the wall. You also need
your dinghy to paddle the short distance to the beach to access the town. The
dock is sealed with high security and cruisers do not walk through it to access
the main road but dinghy to the small beach park close by. Once you have got
your head around that somewhat awkward aspect – it’s all good. Everybody is super
friendly and helpful. We were gifted fresh papayas, lychees and taro root by
locals we met on the beach and a big friendly Aloha to Hawaii. The beach park
is used by locals and there is a small canoe club there. These out-rigged
canoes are everywhere and there is a great tradition of paddling here.
We cleared customs on Monday, got our cruising permit, paid
for our moorage and headed into Hilo Central. The downtown beach area is a
quaint and vibrant collection of shops, cafes and restaurants. There is a
wonderful farmers market there every Saturday and whenever the cruise ship
comes in. We got excellent fresh produce there.
On Tuesday we rented a car. First order of business was to
haul our laundry. It took 5 machine loads to get us cleaned up after our
passage. We did all the sheets and covers at the same time. Then some
re-provisioning and a chance to catch up with e-mail at the ‘Surfbreak’ café.
Highly recommend it for healthful, tasty lunches and easy going seating and
eating arrangement to hang out in for free wifi usage.
On Wednesday we did a road trip. We first traveled NE on the
windward side as far as Hakalua Falls. We stopped at a roadside café called
“what’s shakin” for lunch. Guess what? We experienced our first earthquake - the wooden building really did move and it
sounded like a large dresser had fallen over. It was a 5.2 quake and clearly
the owner was well used to them. What an experience for us. Great lunch, would
recommend their fruit smoothies. We then back-tracked to visit Volcano Park and
Mauna Kea volcano. It was very windy and surprisingly chilly on the volcano. Of
course it’s at 14,000ft above sea level so not surprising really. Saw the steam
vents and huge caldera. The centre of the volcano is constantly
steaming/fuming and glows red at night.
We went to the Lava Rock café for supper and returned after dark to witness the
night-glow of the volcano.
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| Mauna Kea caldera |
Mel left to do his own ‘walk about’ on Thursday. He had just
a few days left and wanted to visit Maui and perhaps other islands before
heading home. John and I did another day of touring and visited hot pools,
Kapaho Beach Park and Black Sand Beach, now mostly covered by hardened lava
flow after the 1990 eruption.
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| Walking on hardened lava |
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| Mel joins some street buskers in Hilo |
June 07, we untied the lines and headed off on an overnight
trip to Kahului harbor on Maui, a distance of 130 nm. There was a small craft
warning in effect because the trades were blowing quite strong. This was going
to be the pattern for several days and we planned a route on the windward side
but staying well out of the mouth of the Allenuihaha channel where winds get
accelerated through the channel. The passage turned out to be quite varied.
Some excellent sailing but the winds and seas did kick up half way through the
channel even from our standoff sailing route. Had some very fast sailing
through the night then things slowed down for the morning but picked up again
in the afternoon. By the time we were making our approach to Kahului the seas
were wild and gusting at 25k+providing quite a vigorous and stressful entry
through the breakwater. The designated anchoring area for small cruising yachts
is a narrow strip on a rapidly shallowing shore. We anchored off a lee
shore with 20k blowing through the anchorage. Not the most comforting of spots.
Decided to stay on the boat, relax ,
read, play scrabble and head out to the more sheltered anchorage of Honolua Bay
the next
day.
June 09 – A cruise ship came into the harbor at 0700 and
woke us up. Just as well. A below datum tide expected at 0930 and by 0730 we
were starting to bottom out on the stern. We quickly pulled out of danger using
the windlass and headed for Honolua bay. The winds were about 12k after we
cleared the breakwater. By the time we were approaching the Pailolo channel
they had increased to 18k. We had a fast sail with 2 reefs in the main and the
wind coming across the beam at first, then later on a broad reach and finally
some running in the channel. Sea Reach behaved impeccably and nimbly made her
way through the changing conditions.Winds were up to 20k and waves increased as
we approached Lipoa Point and the entrance to Honolua Bay. The bay and bight we needed to anchor in was smaller than we had imagined and there were already 2
catamarans anchored close to shore with dozens of swimmers in the water
snorkeling and bobbing around. We headed for the centre of the bay and anchored in
40’ of water, well away from the snorkelers. 200’ of chain out and we were well
set. Winds came through the anchorage at 15k but very little swell.
It’s beautiful here. We have a swim, snorkel and solar shower.
Yeah! This is definitely okay. The water is 26°
C – perfect!
We have a lovely layover day in Honolua Bay, swim to shore and snorkel the reef. Best
snorkeling is closer to shore. There are two large resident green turtles. We
were fortunate to encounter them during our snorkel. There is also a large pod
of Spinner dolphins swimming further out in the bay. Some of the juveniles show
off, leaping and spinning in the air. We swam ashore, walked around the
headland to beach in second bight of bay, then swam/snorkeled back to boat. It
was quite windy with some current. Fins a must for the swim but quite
invigorating. We had a lazy afternoon in the cockpit enjoying our idyllic
surroundings.
June 11 – Up at 0500. Have an early breakfast of fruited
porridge. The anchor is up and away by 0600. We plan to cross the Pailolo
channel to Molokai early. We hope this will mean a less turbulent crossing. 2
reefs in the main and the jenny at 80%. 15-18k winds rapidly fill in as we head
into the channel. Wave swell and height about 6tft. We have a rip roaring sail
across doing 6-7+ k all the way. As we slide into the Kailolo channel on the
west side of Molokai, the waves settle but the winds increase to 20-25k for
several miles. Now we are sailing at 8k (our hull speed) on relatively flat but
frothy seas. An amazing experience. We are sailing using the autohelm which is
doing a wonderful job. The winds stay above 20k until we are 2/3 of the way
down the channel on the west side of Molokai then abate to 12-15k. Within about
4 miles of Lono Harbour on the NW shore, the winds abate to 8k. we start the
engine and motorsail another 3 nm before taking down sail and heading for the
entrance to Lono Harbour. This remote harbor is deserted and derelict but is a
wonderful safe haven and a good jumping off point for the Kaiwi Channel and
Honolulu. The leeward side of Molokai is dry and dessert like. Acacia bushes
line the harbor and an old lava cliff overlooks the anchorage.
June 12 – Crossing the Kaiwi Channel
We set off just after 0600 hoping to get as much of the 26
mile crossing from Molokai to Oahu underway before the strong winds fill
in. While still under the shelter of the NE tip of Molokai, the winds
and seas are light. We started with 2 reefs but shake them both out as the
winds are 8-10k. Once we get away from the shelter of the headland, the channel
very quickly becomes rough and windy. We put 3 reefs in the main and furl the
genoa to 50% as the winds come up to 25k with gusts to 30k and wave height at
8ft across the beam. We quarter the waves for safety and comfort. The crossing
would be fine if it wasn’t 26nm across. Just a bit too much of it for too long.
Totally lived up to its reputation. We were very glad to get into the shelter
of Diamond Head on Oahu. The waters off Waikiki were busy with sailboats,
diving, snorkeling and the Atlantis submarines. Quite the contrast after the
mostly deserted channels and anchorages of the past few days. We head for the
buoys marking the entrance to Ala Wai boat basin. We temporarily tie up at the
recently closed down fuel dock and wade around the cordoned off area so that we
can find the harbormaster and request temporary mooring. (they do not have a
VHF to monitor!) They suggest we first try the Hawaii Yacht Club. Everyone is
gearing up for the Transpac race in July. HYC
is happy to accommodate us with the proviso – raft or be rafted to – and
be prepared to move around if needs be. Yes sir, happy to do that. Before long
we are all organized and paid up for 14 days at $1/ft/day. We are rafted to 2
other motor yachts but we can walk along the swim platforms so its pretty
convenient and quite private. Only the inside boat is occupied by a lovey
retired couple, Terry and Debbie. The clubhouse common room is lovely and
overlooking the water. The showers are great and the local phone calls plus
wifi are free. It’s all good. We’re here in Honolulu – city centre – think
False Creek with more sunshine.
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Diamond Head with Honolulu in the distance
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June 13
A great night’s sleep securely tied to our neighbours. The
channel is busy with with lots of canoe teams rowing hard and passing close to
the boat. There are a number of other cruisers here. Rona on “Hello
World,” a singlehanded sailor who arrived after a 59 day passage from
Panama and Richard on Moon Shadow who came in from the
Marquesas as well as a French couple getting ready to sail to Alaska.
June 14
Regan is arriving this evening at 2115. We spend the morning
checking out the Ala Moana Shopping Centre and figuring out the bus system. We
catch a bus to Aloha Tower, check that out (great view of the harbours and city
from on top)then walk to west Marine. Spend more money but don’t get what we
really want which is a Spartite kit for the mast. E get back to Sea reach late
afternoon, have a light supper before heading out again catch the 19 bus to
Honolulu Airport to meet Regan.
She’s tired but happy to be here. Our transfer tickets allow
us to come back on the bus and just pay an extra $2:50 for Regan’s ticket (they
will only allow carry on size baggage on the bus). – A total of $7:50 for the
round trip. Pretty good. Wonder what a taxi would have cost?
R&R with R
Regan is with us for a week and we have set it aside for
R&R and all the regular tourist sight seeing. On June 16, Fathers Day we
booked tickets with Atlantis Submarines. It’s just a short walk to the pick up
dock on Waikiki beach. I’m hoping this is all it’s cracked up to be because
we’re pretty pumped up and it’s expensive. We are ferried out to the waiting
submarine that comes and goes from a predetermined spot in the bay. Our first
sight of it is an impressive spray of bubbles and foaming white splash as it
surfaces. A long slender white tube with
seating capacity for 64 passengers and 3 crew. We file down the gangplank onto
the topside of the sub and then climb down the ladder into the interior. The
seating is back to back with large round viewing windows. This is cool. The
trip takes just under an hour and we dive to a maximum of 100 ft. you can see
the depth metre displayed on a digital board as we dive. They have created
reefs with sunken boats, an old Japanese plane hull from WWII and several metal
pyramid structures. The marine life swimming around is plentiful. But it’s the
experience of gliding under the water in the sub that makes the trip unique.
It’s as close to scuba diving as you can get without getting wet.
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| John, Regan and Ger enroute to Atlantis submarine |
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| Sunken Ship- view from sub |
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| Inside Atlantis Submarine |
On Monday we had a picnic lunch over at Ala Moana Beach.
It’s a terrific resource to have downtown and unlike its sister, Wikiki, which
is also beautiful but overflowing with tourists and rental stalls for paddle
boards , surf boards and snorkel gear, as it fronts all the major resort
hotels, Ala Moana is quieter, has a lot of shady trees to hang out under when
not swimming and seems to be a central location for wedding photography. In
fact on our second visit for another afternoon of picnicking there, we were
eating under the shade of a tree when a Japanese wedding party came along with
about a dozen chairs and a photographer. They set up shop less than 100 feet
from us and we witnessed the simple but elegant ceremony. It was accompanied by some traditional Hawaiian
music played on a ukulele.
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| Ala Moana Beach Park |
We spent the following morning at Wikiki (a 5 min walk from
the boat) and rented paddle boards. Regan took to it like a duck to water.
Probably all the surf boarding she has done. Johnny and I were a bit more
wobbly but got the hang of it after a bit.
We rented them just for a hour which was plenty of time for
a first go.
On Wednesday we got a bus to the Polynesian Cultural Centre
in Laie. An amazing facility with a complex that includes ‘villages’
representing Polynesian culture on the different islands of the Pacific. We had
bought a package that included along with the general admission, a traditional
Hawaiian feast and the spectacular evening show ‘Ha – Breath of Life’ – an
extravaganza of story, song and dance from the different islands, tied together
by the unifying mythical story of one families’ history.
Highly recommend a visit and full experience of what the
Cultural Centre has to offer.
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| Coconut harvesting demo in Samoan Village |
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| John gets crowned in the tongan village for participating in drumming |
On Thursday we rented a car and headed for the North Shore.
This breathtaking road trip has lots of viewing spots and numerous beach parks
to stop at along the way. We had the best snorkeling we’ve had in Hawaii at
Shark’s Cove. Despite the crowded beach and close proximity of the reef to the
shore, it looked healthy and alive with a good diversity of marine life
including more turtles. We also visited Waimea Botanical Gardens and Falls.
There was a farmers market in full swing at the entrance and we took the
opportunity to eat there and enjoy the live entertainment after returning from
the falls.
We said goodbye to Regan on Friday morning . She headed off
to Mauii to visit a friend and enjoy some surfing.
On Sunday, June 23rd – Tahnoo arrived and is currently
rafted up to us. So now it’s time to get back to work and prepare for the long
trip home.
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