Salish Sea trip August 2022

This year our cruising was planned around a two-week trip with family from Ireland. John's brother Mike and his wife, Breeda would be joining us and we were looking forward sharing some of our favorite spots on the Salish Sea with them. We chose Desolation Sound as our most northerly destination and turnaround spot and set off on August 10th for what would be a wonderful cruise with glorious weather and more swimming than any previous cruise in these waters.

Wed Aug 10 - Squamish to Plumper Marine Park (26nm) We love Keats Island and Plumper Marine Park. It has a dock, mooring buoys, trails and a lovely beach area for swimming. We motor sailed from Squamish into 15kn of inflow. It took us 5 hours (usually takes us 4.5) and we arrived in the late afternoon to find that all the mooring buoys were occupied. However, there was room at the dock and we tied alongside the outer finger. I went ashore with Scout and had a walk before supper. That evening we made tentative plans for our cruise. Winds looked favourable for a crossing the following day, so we decided to head for Newcastle Island by Nanaimo. Mike and Breeda are both sailors so we wanted to make sure the cruising plans would allow for a few good sails, weather permitting.

August 11- Plumper to Newcastle Island (22nm) We left with a freshening morning breeze. As soon as we cleared Shoal Passage, we set the sails and turned the engine off. Bliss! A leisurely sail across the strait with winds of 10-12 knots and speeds of 5-6 knots had us at Newcastle by early afternoon. Once again, no mooring buoys available but space at the dock. We normally opt for a mooring buoy but given the amenities on Newcastle; washrooms, showers and a restaurant/cantina, tying to the dock is a really good option. Our plan was to stay 2 nights and visit Nanaimo the following day. We ended up staying a third night so that we could rendezvous with fellow cruisers, Jay and Anita Bigland. The hike around Newcastle is a good trek (approx.. 8 km) over easy terrain and well worth the effort. As soon as we were settled, we all headed off on the walkabout much to Scout’s delight. It was a glorious day to circumambulate the Island.

The following day we took the dinghy across to Nanaimo to do some shopping and sight-seeing with Mike and Breeda. This was their second trip to Canada and first to BC. Nanaimo is a great stop. It has an excellent Overwaitea grocery store close to the harbour, with many additional shops close by, perfect for picking up those items you forgot to bring with you or for restocking. We picked up a few extra supplies and stashed them in the dinghy before taking a walk along the waterfront. The next day Jay and Anita joined us on Newcastle and after lunch we kayaked and dinghied in tandem across to Protection Island. Another lovely island to walk around. Laidback island living with no cars, just golf carts, makes for a friendly, safe vibe. Later in the afternoon we went for a swim before having supper at the cantina.

August 13 – Newcastle Island to Smuggler Cove Marine Park (24nm) We left Newcastle at 0900 and started sailing as soon as we cleared the easterly tip of Protection Island. It was a beam reach across the Salish Sea in 10-15 knots that had us cruising along at 6 knots. Later in the morning winds increased to 20 knots and we put a reef in the main and rolled in the genoa to 100%. Sea Reach continued to gallop along at 6.5- 7.5 knots. Scout was a bit anxious during the sail and we set him up in the quarter berth which seemed to work better for him. Later he joined Breeda in the V- berth for some TLC. We arrived at Smuggler Cove at 12 noon at low tide. Stern tied just inside the entrance. We had lunch and then did the hike through the park and wetlands area and walked on to Frenchman’s Cove. All went swimming later in the afternoon. We had a fabulous night at anchor in dead calm conditions.

August 14 – Smuggler Cove to Westview Powell River (31nm) Our trip up the Malaspina was in calm conditions with very little wind. We motored all the way. Westview Marina was our Powell River stop. This is a nice marina to stay at with showers,laundry facilities and diesel. Cards are now required to use the showers. Fortunately, we still had ours from last year, so just had to top it up for all of us to have showers that evening. Also did a load of laundry. Only drawback to Powell River is the distance uphill to grocery store. The shoreline walk is lovely. The blackberries were ripening so we picked a small pail to add to the ship’s stores. We had supper at Thaidal Zone restaurant. If you like Thai cooking, this is the place to go. It’s close to the marina, food is yummy and staff are very pleasant. It’s also dog friendly if you sit outside, so gets a high paw from Scout.

August 15 – Powell River to Galley Bay (24nm) Had a late start next morning as we waited our turn to fuel up before leaving. We motored most of the way to Galley Bay with just about one hour of gentle sailing from a light following wind. We anchored in the inner east bay. The entrance to this arm is obstructed until you are well into the main bay area. It is an area that has a number of cottages so landing is only possible on the small islets to the northwest. A few other boats were already at anchor but we found an area off one of the islets that worked well. It was a beautiful afternoon and we all went swimming off the boat, including a small reluctant swim by Scout to cool off.

August 16 – Galley Bay to Pendrell Harbour via Redonda Island Medical Emergency(12nm) As we were leaving Galley Bay a Pan Pan came through on the radio for a medical emergency east of Martin Island. A group of kayakers had sent out the pan pan from a small cove on Redonda. The location was about 3 nm from us so we scooted across the sound as fast as we could to see if we could help. We managed to locate the group. Search and Rescue were already there. Great response on their part! We called out to let them know we had a physician onboard if they needed extra help. They indicated yes and sent their rib out to collect John who went to help with assessment and care plan. The prognosis was good and he came back with a smile on his face. We headed on to check out Pendrell Sound, reputedly the warmest water north of Mexico. We managed some light sailing with the whisker pole up enroute. We anchored and stern tied to a tree about 2/3 of the way up the sound. We had a swim in 23 deg water temperature. Later that night a squall came through and blew us too close and sideways to shore. There was still 2 hours before low tide and I could have jumped ashore off the stern. We decided it was too risky to stay put and at 0300 weighed anchor and headed slowly towards Tenedos Bay.

August 17 – Pendrell to Tenedos Bay (12nm) It was a beautiful moonlight night. We decided to put the sail up, turn the engine off and enjoy a quiet cup of tea under the stars. We ate breakfast in the middle of Waddington Channel with our sails down and engine off -just bobbing around in the early morning. We were in no hurry. We didn’t want to get to Tenedos before people who were planning on leaving had actually left. We got to Tenedos at 1000 and moored in the inner cove on the east side near the trailhead. Anchored in 90+ ft and stern tied. (270 ft of chain out). Cautionary note :- We almost lost the anchor and chain when John lost control of windlass pawl. – Always deploy under control – especially in deep water! Tenedos is fabulous! Unwin lake is a short hike away and a great place for a freshwater swim. We all had a refreshing swim and then took the dinghy for a tour of the bay. We decided we would stay for two nights and do the hike to Melanie Cove the following day. Next morning we headed off on foot to Melanie Cove. It was listed as about 3.5 km so we figured it would take about 2.5 hours round trip. We only brought a small amount of water with us. Bad planning. It was a really hot day and the hike was moderate to hard (depending on your age and fitness level) with lots of elevation up and down so coming back was going to be as hard. There was a section of the trail littered with fallen trees where we had to climb over or crawl /stoop under. We persevered. Breeda collected salal berries for the flagging troops and they definitely helped. My regard for salal berries went way up on that trip. We made it to Melanie Cove and all plunged into the seawater to cool down. The trip back wasn’t quite as arduous. Somehow when you know what to expect it is easier to endure. The round trip was 7 km with an elevation of 300m. We had a delicious swim at Unwin Lake upon our return and felt very satisfied with our accomplishment.

August 19 - Tenedos Bay to Vananda 33nm Next morning, we left around 1000 and had a leisurely trip to Vanada under motor power, arriving at the dock at 1530. The wharfinger assigned a club spot on finger 3 for us. Call or radio ahead as they are happy to accommodate extra boats in available member slips. Texada is a lovely welcoming island with showers up the hill at Maggie and Bob’s for $4. Lots of deer on the island. We contacted Kevin and Sharon Black who we have known since our days in Manitoba when we were both young couples recently arrived from Ireland. Kevin has run a solo medical practice on Texada for years, providing great service to the community. The following morning we had breakfast with Sharon and Kevin before leaving.

August 20 – Vananda to Bargain Bay (Pender) – 22nm Left Vananda at 1100 and decided to try a new anchorage on the outside of the main entrance to Pender Harbour. Bargain Bay is tucked away on the south east side of Francis Peninsula. There is a small drying channel that connects it to the inner reaches of Pender Harbour. It is a very nice anchorage and good option for a short stay. We dinghied through the channel when the tide was high enough and went to Madeira Park Public Wharf. We walked to the Mexican restaurant about ½ a mile from harbour – up the hill for supper that evening. Great food! We will be back.

August 21 – Bargain Bay to Plumper Cove – 27nm Left Bargain Bay at 1030 with wind from the SE and the tide against us. Main sail helped to steady and propel us forward but as the wind increased to 15 knots our speed went down to 4.5 knots with the engine on. A bit of a grind but weather generally pleasant. We arrived at Plumper at 1600 and picked up a mooring buoy. We hiked to Keats Landing and back and had a swim before supper. Sea temperature still 21 deg at Plumper.

August 22 Plumper to Squamish – 25nm We started the final leg of our journey home at 1000 the following morning under a glorious blue sky. We had been away for almost two weeks and had warm – very hot temperatures throughout. We couldn’t have asked for better conditions to showcase one of the most beautiful and diverse cruising grounds in the world. We made one final stop at Anvil Island where we picked up the Squamish Yacht Club mooring buoy and had our last meal together on the water. A very memorable trip with another 248 nm of Sea Reach adventures completed.