Return to Haida Gwaii 2015

On the evening of June 01, 2015 we slipped the lines and slowly made our way down the blind channel that leads to Howe Sound.  It was late evening.  A quiet stillness greeted us as we glided out along smooth waters. We were headed for Haida Gwaii 600 nm to the north and had a two-month travel window to complete the round trip. It was already 2100, but we were eager to be away and had planned to pick up the Squamish Yacht Club mooring buoy that lay just 3 nm miles out in Darryl Bay. After two weeks of stowing, packing and preparation of the vessel we just wanted to get away from the dock. No matter that the lights of the harbour were still in our view. We were away and would be ready for an early morning start after a good night’s sleep in our v-berth, securely attached to the mooring buoy. We picked up the mooring and enjoyed a hot cup of coffee in the cockpit before retiring for the night.

We had recently replaced the foam mattress and had added spring slats to provide both airflow and additional comfort. We were very pleased with the result.

Blissful Sleep

June 01- June 09 Squamish to Squirrel Cove – 102nm

Next morning we headed to Plumper Cove Marine Park on Keats Island. We love this stopover before heading out into the Salish Sea. There are beautiful trails and the walk to Keats Landing and back is a nice stretch. My ‘fitbit’ went off so I know it is 10,000+ steps to and from Keats Landing. Later that evening while washing up we started having trouble with the pressure in the freshwater pump. Hmm - I wonder if I should keep track of all the mechanical failures on this trip or will that be too depressing! What the heck, let’s call this MG1 (Mechanical Glitch 1). The problem was that it just wouldn’t cut in when the pressure went below the normal threshold, so we were forced to lift the floorboard and press the switch manually every time we needed to boost the pressure. This was a dance we would get very good at over the coming weeks. John tried cleaning the points without success (Just another piece of equipment to order and replace). However, it wasn’t mission critical so we weren’t too concerned.

Sea Reach on a mooring at Plumper Cove

On June 03 we headed for Smuggler’s Cove on the Sunshine Coast. We had a leisurely motor-sail against light head winds along the 22nm stretch of coastline. We entered at low tide, which was quite an eye opener as we skirted around the rocks in the narrow entranceway.  We anchored and stern-tied before taking the dinghy ashore and hiking to the main road and back. This hike is another lovely excursion through woods and boardwalks over wetlands that are home to many waterfowl.  Later in the evening I inflated the kayak and explored the shoreline in calm seas as the sun was setting.

Smugglers Cove on the Sunshine Coast

June 04 was a layover day in Smugglers Cove. The weather was beautiful. We hiked to the road again and walked along Brooks Road to Frenchman’s Cove. We found a small enclave of houses nestled in a spectacular setting. We met Leanne, while on our walk. She had moved there from Squamish 12 years ago and loves it. I mused about moving to the Sunshine Coast – something I do from time to time. John indulged me, eyed the cove for its potential as a moorage and made some approving comments. But it’s just a game we play – finding a waterfront property where our boat is moored within sight of the kitchen window. When we returned to Smugglers Cove there were two other boats that had come in while we were away. We met Rick and Renee, a couple from Saskatchewan, who hope to retire some day and buy a live aboard boat. They were on a chartered Beneteau for a two-week vacation, learning the ropes and enjoying some crabbing. The other boat Riki-Tivi-Tavi was known to us. We had met Nina and Clark in 2008 when we circumnavigated Vancouver Island on our first Sea Reach adventure. We met them in the remote anchorage of Klaskish Inlet on the West Coast and shared one of those unforgettable episodes with them. Clark had been fishing in his dinghy when he caught a very large halibut but had no gaff. He had radioed back to Nina, and John and I set out on our dinghy (an inflatable) with our gaff to assist. However, this was no ordinary halibut. This was a 60lb monster that needed to be towed, herded and generally dragged ashore before being dispatched of. There was a lot of halibut eaten on that trip! We hadn’t seen them since so it was a delight to catch up with them. This is definitely one of the gifts of cruising – the people you meet and the experiences you share in the most unlikely places.

Next morning we headed to Secret Cove – just around the corner. John had agreed to be part of the teaching team for a 3 –day CARE (Comprehensive Approach to Rural Emergencies)course in Sechelt, so we booked into the marina for three days. I had two-day trips to Sechelt as well as some kayaking and swimming. Yes – swimming – it was that hot.

On June 08, we left Secret Cove at 0530 trying to make tracks before the expected strong NW windiest in. It was blowing 20 knots by 0700! We started sailing with one reef in the main, tacking across the Malaspina Channel at 7-8knots but distance made good was at a rate of 2.5-3 knots. The winds rose to 25-30 knots. We put in another reef. The boat was handling great – we were screaming back and forth across the channel but progress towards destination, Venanda, on Texada Island still around 3 knots. The Jenny sustained a tear while we were shortening it. We reeled in the rest of the Jenny and motor-sailed under the main. This was MG2 of the trip. Fortunately we had a spare Jenny on board so this would be replaced before leaving Veranda. 

Shortly after that incident the wind died down to 15 knots. I guess the wind gods had had their daily giggle and decided not to punish us further. We tied up at the visitors mooring at Texada Boating Club Marina. This is still one of the least expensive places to tie to a dock. At 70cents/ft, it cost us $30 for the night. We contacted friends, Sharon and Kevin Black who have been living on the Island for 18 years. We spent a lovely evening with them at their log home overlooking the Strait of Georgia. 

We waited for the winds to weaken before setting out the next day. They blew 25-30 knots all morning but by 1300 had diminished to 15-20 knots. We set off and were able to sail until 1730, tacking our way up towards the Copeland Islands. We put the engine on before entering Thulin passage. What a wonderful day we were having – blue skies and terrific sailing conditions. Copeland Marine Park looked very inviting. We made a mental note to return sometime for an overnighter and some kayaking. We arrived at Squirrel Cove at 1945 and anchored in the inner cove behind Protection Island. It is an absolutely beautiful anchorage. Very protected with room for several vessels. There is talk of increased marine farming in the area but there was no evidence that anything had started as of yet.

June 10-14 Squirrel Cove to Port Mac Neil – 100nm

Squirrel Cove on Cortez Island is a jumping off point for heading through the numerous rapids one must negotiate when traveling through the squeeze point between the northeast tip of Vancouver Island and the mainland. Our plan was to make passage through Yuculta, Gillard and Dent Rapids on the first day and to negotiate Green Point and Whirlpool Rapids the following day.

We timed our arrival at Yuculta Rapids one hour before slack. This gave us time to go through using back eddies and arriving at slack at Gillard Rapids and then on through Dent Rapids.  We made good time and could have proceeded through Green Point but decided to stay at Cordero Lodge and proceed as planned the following day. Cordero Resort Lodge is on a floating platform and is delightful – but currents run strong at the dock and this makes docking quite challenging. Let’s just say it wasn’t our most elegant docking but nothing broke and nobody got hurt, except for that bruised ego.  We had a nice long walk along a logging road and then had an excellent supper at the lodge for $20/plate. Moorage was $1/ft. The place was teaming with humming birds. There were several feeders attracting them. I counted 35 but our host told us that daily counts of 75 were common. There was a swallow’s nest at the entrance to the restaurant and the owners had a fitted a catcher for the droppings rather than disturb the nest. Definitely worth the visit.

Hummingbirds at Cordero Lodge Resort

Slack at Green Point Rapids was at 1230 on June 11, so we had a nice sleep in and leisurely breakfast before heading off at 12 noon.  We arrived in perfect time. There was more sun and wind as we made our way up Wellbore Channel and through Whirlpool Rapids. They were running fairly fast but not at peak current. We had 2+ knot lift as we went through. Winds really picked up as we made our way through Sunderland Channel. We crossed over to the north side to get some protection from the chop. Winds went up to 27 knots ROTN (right on the nose). The current continued to help us a bit. When we reached Johnstone Strait the winds were 30+.

We battled our way against the head winds to make the last 2 nm to reach Blenkinsop Bay. It’s a big open bay but affords some protection from the NW off White Bluffs on the west side. We anchored in this location with winds blowing between18-20 knots at the anchorage but no fetch. We put lots of chain out in 23 feet of water at low tide. One other boat had also ducked in to get off Johnstone Strait and was anchored close by.

On June 12 the forecast predicted winds of 20-25 in the morning on Johnstone Strait, increasing to 30-35 in the afternoon.  We decided to try and make Port Harvey and sneak around through the Broughton Islands. But the sea conditions were way too lumpy with short chop and breaking waves across the bow. Our speed was reduced to 2-3 knots, sometimes less. We headed into Port Neville a distance of 2nm from our starting point and found an anchorage past July Point. We put out lots of chain in 18 feet of water (120). The gale must have developed early on Johnstone Strait. We had winds in the anchorage gusting to 25 knots. We decided to hunker down and make the most of it.  I did some washing and started reading Graham Fuller’s novel, “Breaking Faith,” played some music with John and of course had a game of scrabble.

We had pancakes and fruit salad for supper. (Comfort food)

The winds had subsided the following morning to 15 knots and the seas were less choppy. We were still dealing with head winds but made reasonable progress under motor-sail, bypassed Port Harvey and made for Growler Cove at the tip of West Cracroft Island. Wind had built again to 22 knots just as we approached entrance to Growler Cove – so our timing (and luck) was just about right. The cove is well protected and afforded an excellent though tight anchorage. We drove in as near to the head as possible and anchored in 16 feet of water. We had a pleasant evening at anchor while the winds out on Johnstone Strait continued to blow hard. The Johnstone Strait has a well-deserved reputation of frequent gales and nasty seas. This is particularly problematic heading northwest when the winds are from the northwest. Watching for suitable weather windows and not being pressed for time is the best approach for small craft tackling this stretch of sea.

June 14, we left Growler Cove at 0800 on a beautiful morning in light winds. Johnstone Strait had totally calmed down. We had an ebb tide in our favour as we motored to Port Mac Neill at 7 knots for most of the 18 nm passage. We were passed by a huge cruise ship while crossing Weyton Passage. When the tide turned we slowed down to 5 knots but still arrived at 1100 at Port Mac Neill Marina.  We were able to fuel up at our moorage spot. They have a traveling diesel pump. Excellent idea – one stop only and we were bow out ready for an early departure. We had showers, did laundry and got more fresh produce. We were ready for the next leg of the journey.

Cruise Ship Passing by Alert Bay

 June 15 – 17 Port Mac Neil to Bella Bella – 135 nm

We left Port Mac Neil at 0530 to allow enough time to round Cape Caution if conditions were favourable.  We made 7 knots in calm seas under power with a push from the ebb tide until well into the Gordon Channel. Winds picked up to 10-12 We hoisted the sails and motor-sailed at 6-7 knots close hauled. This trip north proved to be a good testing ground for making the most of both tide and efficient motor-sailing. By 0100 we were passing the Walker Island Group. If wind stayed below 20 knots we would round the cape and head for Millbrook Cove. Swells were quite large in the middle of Queen Charlotte Sound, rolling in at 6-8 feet. Sea Reach is an ocean going vessel with a modified full keel and moved comfortably and confidently through the swell. It was a fine day for clearing the cape in such a well-found vessel. We kept our distance from the shoreline and once rounded turned off the engine to enjoy the silence and joy of pure sailing. Our speed went down to 4-5 knots and we enjoyed a beautiful afternoon of sailing for the final 12nm to Millbrook Cove.  Millbrook Cove is an excellent anchorage, deep inside a cove with several island and islets at the mouth. Lots of rocks so need to navigate carefully. Wagoner has an excellent description. Locate Islet 30M and go to the east of it to get into inner cover. Watch for crab traps and lines from floats! Anchor behind Islet 30M. We had the anchor set at 1630 after a 70nm passage. We inflated our Kayak and John and I took turns exploring the inner cove. We had a quiet night. The boat didn’t budge.

 

Lighthouse Fitzhugh Sound

We left Millbrook Cove next morning just before the turn to flood on a 1.3 foot low tide. All the rocks and hazards were exposed as we left the anchorage and made our way through a series of islands and islets into Fitzhugh Sound.  There was quite a swell coming in from the Pacific at the opening to the sound but the swell subsided once we made our way deeper into the sound. We motor-sailed at 5-6 knots. There was not much lift from the incoming tide but we knew that the ebb would cause us problems so wanted to get to Namu before the turn at 1430. We turned off the engine for the last 6nm just to enjoy the quietness and glided along at 2.5-3 knots as the winds died down. A Holland America cruise ship passed us just before we turned into the entrance to Namu.  Once inside we discovered that the place was deserted and no trespassing signs were posted all around the collapsing docks and buildings.

The last time we were in Namu, (5 years ago) caretakers Rennie and Pete were still living there with a large barge and floating dock to tie to.  Sad to see the place deserted. There were crab pots set in the inner cove so someone was still using the area. We anchored close to the old cannery in 45 feet of water at high tide. I went for a kayak to look for signs of human habitation but other than the crab pots found nothing. We stayed onboard and enjoyed a nice evening of music, scrabble and an episode of the detective series, Vera.

Old Cannery at Namu Now Deserted

Next morning we set off at 0745 to catch the flood tide up Fisher Channel and over to Lama Passage. There seemed to be a current against us in the passage joining  Fisher to Lama. There is a squeeze point where the flood comes through from the lower end of Lama. We slowed down to 4 knots for about 2nm. The current slacked off as the passage opened up into the main Lama passage. We arrived at Bella Bella to find much of the transient dock taken away by a winter storm. We were able to get diesel but no water as water restrictions were in force. Fortunately our tanks were still at least half full. This was our first indication of how the hot dry weather was starting to affect water levels across the province. We decided to anchor off the beach north of the dock. Lots of boats were moored there but it shallowed up fairly quickly so we had to be careful where we anchored as there was a very large tidal excursion expected that night. We anchored in 30+ feet of water and dinghied ashore to check out the local store. It was very well stocked with a good selection of fresh produce. We were very pleasantly surprised. We had a walk through the village, visited the Elder Centre and had a nice chat with Gloria the activities coordinator.  Local physician, Stu Iglesias and his wife Wendy joined us for ‘appies’ on board Sea Reach later. Stu lives on Denny Island and works at Bella Bella.

  

June 18- 20 Bella Bella to Larsen Harbour 163nm

We left Bella Bella at 0630 and continued our journey north under power. At 0930 the winds started to pick up as we reached Seaforth Passage. We turned off the engine and sailed at a leisurely pace of 4.5-5 knots as we crossed over to Millbanke Sound. It was a glorious summer’s day that we enjoyed, uninterrupted by any other traffic. There are few cruisers to encounter north of Bella Bella. Anchorages are rarely over crowded if occupied at all. We make a habit of visiting any other cruisers we meet to check in, say hi and share local knowledge. We anchored that evening at Smither’s Island Conservancy, located on the Loredo Channel.  A beautiful anchorage but very deep. We put out 250 feet of chain in 84 feet of water – yikes!  Thank goodness for a strong windlass. Very calm and sheltered.

Next morning we left at 0745. The air was still and the seas glass smooth. It was a cloudy day with the likelihood of rain. While crossing Camano Sound we saw a humpback at a distance of about ½ mile. He gave a brief display with some fluke waving before sounding out of sight. In Napean Sound we encountered a tug pulling a large barge with a house built on it. The tug was not emitting an AIS signal. We were glad that the visibility was good. There were some rain showers enroute but the barometer had risen 20 millibars indicating that the low had passed. A good omen that the winds would settle in from the NW over the next two days as expected, which would work for our crossing the Hecate Strait.  Our plan was to cross to Skidegate from the top of Banks Island. We anchored that night about ½ way up Pitt Island at Patterson Inlet. It is a very long narrow inlet with a beautiful sheltered anchorage in both arms. We chose the most northerly arm and enjoyed kayak rides on “Baidin” before supper. Our only company, were the sea otters and nesting eagles. After supper we played some music and watched an episode of “Vera.”

We woke to a glorious morning with very little cloud cover. The barometer was steady at 1027 mb. We drove out of the long narrow inlet on silky waters with a pair of nesting eagles whistling at us as we passed close by. We left at 0830 and drove all  morning. One tug and barge passed, also, another smaller motor yacht. No other traffic all day. The wind came up a little from the WNW towards noon. This allowed us to motor-sail the rest of the way. Larsen Harbour at the northerly tip of Banks Island is a tight anchorage to get into. There are kelp beds and rock scattered around the entrance. We were glad to have electronic charts with GPS tracking.  One other motor yacht was anchored inside – Hobo’s Spirit, with Tim and Darlene on board. They were on their way home after a trip to Haida Gwaii. They gave us the phone number of Roberta Olsen who provides Haida meals in Skidegate – 250-559-8347. Larsen anchorage is surrounded by an archipelago of small islets.  A lovely spot for kayaking.

June 21 Crossing the Hecate 58 nm

The last time we crossed the Hecate, five years ago, we made an overnight, diagonal crossing from Camano Sound to Skidegate 80+nm. A gale filled in during the early morning and we fled ahead of it for the final 20 nm. It was a stress filled crossing that left me less than enthusiastic about the infamous strait. On June 21, 2015 we awoke to light winds with a forecast of ideal sailing conditions, 12-15 kn from the NW. This would allow us to do a beam reach all the way across. It was a glorious day. Once we got out of the shelter of Banks Island the promised winds filled in. We turned off the engine and sailed for several hours in perfect conditions. The sea was turquoise, the skies blue and the sun streaming down upon us. We could have been in Mexico or the Caribbean. By 1500 the winds slacked off and our speed began to slump. Eventually we put the motor on again once our speed had gone below 3 knots. We arrived at the bar about one hour before high tide and crossed about one mile south of the green can. No hint of menace in this crossing.  We arrived at Queen Charlotte Harbour and were fortunate to get a space at the dock in an excellent location. We had help on the dock from Lynn and Kirk who were our immediate neighbours. They have an elegant custom built motor yacht with the lines of a lobster boat – “Alice.” She’s a beauty. On the other finger were Helen and Ian on “Nightide.” Another beauty. 46foot Liberty cutter rigged sloop that had been extensively refitted. They are planning to sail to New Zealand, perhaps in 2016.

We met Daniel the Harbour Master. Moorage was 80 cents/ft/day. There is water at the dock and fuel nearby (opening hours 5-8 p.m.) It felt really satisfying to have arrived safely. We celebrated with a great fish and chip supper at the Raven Inn.

Leg two of the journey completed.

June 22/23/23/24 – Lay Over Queen Charlotte

We had invited our good friends Mel and Cathy to join us for part of our expedition. They had chosen Haida Gwaii as neither had been there before. Mel has joined us on long passages before but this would be the first time Cathy had joined us. They arrived the next morning at 0700 off the ferry from Prince Rupert. They had rented a car for a couple of days and also a room at the Hecate Inn. We had given them a window of several days in which we might arrive so they were prepared to wait around for our arrival. This worked fine for everybody because it gave them a chance to explore Graham Island and Masset and us a chance to relax and re-provision the boat. We all had breakfast together at Queen B’s café and then Ger and John went to do laundry and grocery shopping while Mel and Cathy went to the hotel for a sleep.

On Tuesday we all went to Skidegate. Mel and Cathy did their orientation for Gwaii Haanas Marine Park while John and I used the car to do errands – got some jerry cans of diesel and topped up the propane. After lunch, Mel and Cathy took a drive to Masset. We decided to walk the 5 km back to Queen Charlotte to stretch our legs and get some exercise.

Wednesday was a leisure day. We visited the library, where I donated a copy of Dragon Quest. Mel and Cathy joined us onboard Sea Reach for lunch. The afternoon was rainy but we had a short hike in the late afternoon then went to M+C’s hotel room for a shower before going out for supper at the home of Roberta Olsen. The traditional Haida meal was delicious – various types of fish dishes, salmon(Chinook), ling cod, octopus, herring roe, halibut soup, homemade bread, fresh veggies, homemade relish and fruit flan dessert.

On our last day in Queen Charlotte, John and I went for an arduous hike up the mountainside with a picnic lunch. John loved it but Ger – not so  much. Later that evening we topped up the boat with water using 3 connecting hoses to reach the water outlet. We had an excellent pizza supper at OV Pizza located at the head of the dock. Mel and Cathy moved aboard.

Cathy and Mel settle in

June 26 – July 04 Exploring Gwaii Haanas – 195 nm

Gwaii Haanas comprises most of Moresby and the islands south of it. They are completely uninhabited except for the seasonal watchmen that care-take the ancient village sites and guide visitors who come to learn about traditional Haida culture, dwellings and burial sites. The archipelago is home to thousands of breeding birds, and marine life. Overnight anchorage is prohibited at the village sites so one has to plan to arrive in daylight and allow time to reach ones intended anchorage. We decided to sail past Skeddans the first afternoon and anchor at Thurston Harbour 44nm down the coast. We anchored off the north shore and went for a walk on the shoreline before supper. Mel played the guitar that evening as we settled into life onboard together. The next morning we headed back to Skeddans and were the first visitors of the day. Our guides were Natasha and Kelsey. Natasha is from Skidegate and Kelsey is from Masset. When the village sites were abandoned the various clans set up home either in Skidegate or Masset and maintain to this day their hereditary chief selection based on the old village communities. Skeddans has mortuary, memorial poles and potlatch poles. The poles are very much in decay. Depressions and roof beams from two longhouses are still visible but covered in moss. The guides had old photos to help build the picture of former times. We had lunch while at anchor. Several other boats arrived just after we had finished our tour. It looked like the guides were going to have a busy afternoon. We sailed for about 45 mins on our way back to Thurston. We anchored in a different place close to the beach on the south side about .6nm from Thompson Point. Cathy had a quick dip. We had a nice walk to an old campsite with hut. Saw two 

raccoons on the shoreline. Will report to Parks Canada – invasive pest species.

Natasha and Kelsey show old photos and drawings of Village site at Skeddans

Depression and Remains of Beams of decayed Longhouse Skeddans

Headstone Haida Carver Bill Reid on Tanu Village Site

July 28 left Thurston at 0900 and arrived at the south shore of Tanu at 1100. Our guide was Mary with little Raven in tow. Her nephew James was also there. Tanu is where carver Bill Reid is buried. We got a long leisurely tour with Mary – walked all around the old village site and on to the north beach and visited the point where both Bill Reid and Chief Charlie are buried. In Bill’s case, ashes only due to modern regulations around burial sites. We had lunch at anchor again on a glorious sunny day.

Chief Charlie Memorial with copper breastplate

Raven gets a ride 

 We took the short cut to Echo Harbour through Richardson Inlet and Richardson Passage. A narrow inlet due to several islets and drying areas off Lyell Island side. Echo Harbour is beautiful with a narrow entrance that is difficult to find. Electronic charts and GPS tracking make it easier. MG3 – Head would not empty! John spent most of the afternoon fixing it. Salt encrustations had to be manually gouged and pummelled out of the lines.

Gwaii Haanas Anchorage

Totem at Windy Bay erected in 2013 to commemorate 20 years of partnership with Parks Canada

Next morning we headed to Shuttle Island water station, one of two stations where water is available in the park. We tied to the floating dock where the water hoses provide a constant supply of stream water flowing through them. We all had showers and gave Sea Reach a rinse down before refilling our tanks.  We had lunch at the dock and then went on to Windy Bay. We arrived at 1730 and anchored as close as we dared to the shallow coastline. There is a new memorial totem at Windy bay – erected in 2013 to commemorate 20 years of partnership with Parks Canada. We met Latisha and Donna. Latisha brought us on a 45 min hike through the old growth forest - a magical place. She was very knowledgeable and pointed out the different tree species; salal, huckleberry, salmonberry, teas, liquorice root found on ferns growing on alder trees. We paid our respects at an ancient spruce tree dated at 900+ years. We waded back across the stream to the watchmen’s cabin. Thought about staying at anchor at Windy Bay but deided it was just too exposed – so went on to Murchison and anchored close to a steep-to shoreline.

Windy Bay Hike

MG4 – our bilge pump now needs to be turned on manually. It was not coming on automatically. This gives us a chance to monitor amount of water ingress throughout the day – a little more than we would like. We know our stern gland has a fairly impressive drip but there may be something else going on also.

Next morning we chatted to the captain from “Morning Cloud.” It is the mothership for kayaking expeditions. We met a number of kayakers as we also explored the area in “Baidin.” Everyone seemed to be having an awesome time. We got some sailing in while passaging to Bag Harbour but mostly motor-sailed the 30 nm passage.  The next day we got up early to visit Dolomite Narrows (Burnaby Narrows) in the dinghy at low tide. There is an amazing array of underwater vegetation and sea-life. All sorts of different types of seaweed, sea cucumbers, starfish of varying colours and lots of crabs. Met several kayakers in the narrows and spent about two hours drifting slowly over the marine forest, returning to Sea Reach at 1130. We decided to stay put, have lunch and a leisurely afternoon.  In the mid- afternoon, “Northern Sun” with Heather and Greg onboard, arrived at the anchorage. It was July 01 and we decided to invite them over that evening for the ceremonial raising of our new flag on Canada Day. Ger baked muffins for the occasion.

Sea Anenomes Burnaby Narrows

 

Sea Reach at Anchor Bag Harbour

July 02 – Off to Rose Harbour

Rose Harbour on Kunghit Island is the only place in the area where there are fulltime inhabitants. Gutz lives year round and Susan 10 months of the year. It is a former whaling station and a mecca for kayakers as it is the one place where they can look forward to a home cooked gourmet meal. We motor-sailed most of the way there, slowing down as we approached Garcin Rocks where there is a sealion colony. What a noisy bunch they are. The tidal streams are quite strong through Langford Shoals and our speed was reduced from 6 to 4 knots on our approach to Rose Harbour. We anchored close to the mooring buoy. Parks Canada had issued a warning that the buoys throughout the Park were unsafe and needed servicing. Very disappointing as on our last trip we used mooring buoys at several locations. We contacted Susan on channel 06 and asked if we could come for supper. She already had a group of 20 arriving so it didn’t look too hopeful. However, when Gutz arrived with plenty of freshly caught fish she contacted us and added us to the guest list. We went for a hike before supper to prepare for what we knew was going to be a treat. We were not disappointed, We had sushi and salad to start with geoduck. There were three types of fish with noodles and vegetables from the garden for the main course.  Apple slice and peppermint tea was served for dessert. Two kayak groups ate with us. We all sat outside on an assortment of chairs and tree stumps.

Mel helps out when lack lustre winds slow down progress

 Next day we had a leisurely morning. We all took showers and did some laundry, hanging our various sundries out to dry on the lifelines. Later in the afternoon we headed for Louscoone Inlet where there is another water station. We waited for slack tide before heading out with the ebb to avoid the strong currents that flow around Ellen Island. Water flow at the station was quite slow, an indication of the dry summer being experienced throughout B.C. – even in the rainy coastal areas. We went to the anchorage located between Etches and Cadman Points and found that the mooring buoy had been removed. All other mooring buoys in the park now have “Danger Do Not Use” notices. Parks Canada needs to fix this!

We had difficulty getting good radio reception, which made getting our weather forecasts difficult.

Keeping the Log Book

Close Mortuary Pole Sgang Gwaii

On July 04 we made a day trip to Sgang Gwaii, the last village site on our itinerary. It is located just 6 nm south of the anchorage. It is perhaps the most frequently visited village site with the most intact mortuary poles still standing. It was another sunny day but the winds were quite high. Ger stayed on anchor watch while the others visited the village site.  A quasi-stationary ridge of high pressure had settled off Bowie and was responsible for the weather pattern. Gale warnings were in effect for the South Hecate Strait and West Haida Gwaii.  We had some blow through as we made our way to Anthony Island – a taste of what to expect on our passage to Vancouver Island. The good news was that the winds were from the NNW so would push us in the right direction. Humpback whales were unconcerned with the weather. We had a beautiful specimen swimming quite close to us as we made our way back to Lausconne anchorage. Our last night at anchor was quiet as we prepared for the 180 nm passage to Winter Harbour on the west coast of Vancouver Island.  

Humpback

Gang Gwai Tour with Mortuary Poles in Background

Ger gets a tow on Baidin

July 05/06 – Passage from Anthony Island to Winter Harbour 180 nm

We set off at 0630 with winds 15-20 from the NW. We had a nice brisk sail down Lousconne Inlet and past Anthony Island. As we reached the unprotected waters off Queen Charlotte Sound we experienced 12 foot waves and confused seas. It was difficult to sail downwind with the hydrovane as the wind speed varied from the crest to the trough of the waves. This made for an unpleasant lurching ride and the crew was rapidly succumbing to mal de mer. Cathy had Stugeron and she offered it to us all. Mel never gets sick so he didn’t need it. John passed and I decided to try it. It turned out to be a lifesaver for me and I am now a devotee of the wonder drug. Cathy, however, became incapacitated and took to her bunk. John was also looking and feeling green but persevered. Mel, as always remained impervious to the conditions. We put the autohelm on and motor-sailed for a couple of hours. But after about three hours, the strain of dealing with the waves had sheared a connector in the autohelm and it packed in. MG 5! By now the wind had picked up to 20-25 knots and we had passed the opening to Queen Charlotte Sound. Seas were steadier. We set up the windvane again and altered our course to a broad reach on a more south westerly direction, which would over shoot the entrance to Winter Harbour. We would need to correct when conditions improved.  Winds remained high throughout the night but never exceeded 30 knots. Early next morning the seas calmed down and we had a very pleasant morning as the crew slowly recovered their appetites. Cathy started to feel better and was at least drinking again. John drinking but not eating. Mel and I had porridge. The rest of the journey was very pleasant. We saw three cruise ships when we were within 30 miles of Vancouver Island. We also saw 3 turtles, possibly leatherbacks, a sighting that is becoming more regular as seas continue to warm. By early afternoon the winds and seas were calm so we turned on the engine and hand steered the rest of the way to Winter Harbour. We had about two hours of additional sailing when the winds filled in from the SE (lucky for us) as we approached land. Fortunately we had all our southing completed, which afforded us a beam reach for our entry to Quatsino. After clearing the entrance to Quatsino we took the dinghy off the coach house roof and put it back in the water to improve visibility. We arrived at the public dock in Winter Harbour at 2100 – a 38 hour passage completed.

 

Arriving at Quatsino Inlet after our passage from Anthony Island 180nm

We had a layover day in Winter Harbour to do some shopping (store is very expensive – be warned), laundry, have showers and generally get some rest after the crossing. Met some other sailors who were on their way around Vancouver Island. They had been holed up at Hope Island for 3 days waiting for a weather window. We met Mick, one of the fishing guides who kindly gave us a present of some halibut. We had some for dinner that evening. It was delicious! This is the joy of cruising – beautiful anchorages, generous people – expect the unexpected.  Had a walk on the boardwalk that skirts Winter Harbour Village. We took on water and diesel and moved to the marina for our second night. It is closer to showers/toilet/laundry and store.

July 08/09/10 – Coal Harbour

We left Winter Harbour at 1000 to catch low slack at Quatsino narrows. We got a lift from ebb tide for the first few miles. Inflow allowed us to motor sail at 5.5 knots against the ebb enroute to Quatsino Narrows. We reached the narrows about one hour after slack and had a nice ride through. We arrived at Coal Harbour at 1530. This was our first visit to Coal Harbour. The marina is run by Quatsino First Nations and is only 8 miles from Port Hardy with a regular bus service. This was a good drop-off spot for Mel and Cathy to catch flights home and also to pick up Joe Moran who was joining us for the next leg of the expedition. This is a great place to stop for diesel, water, laundry, showers and a bus service three times daily to and from Port Hardy during weekdays at $2:50 per person. Moorage is 50cents/foot. A great finish to leg 3 of our trip.

During our stay at Coal Harbour, Mel and John dismantled the auto-helm and took the broken pieces to a welder in Port Hardy. The repair was successful and the auto-helm working again before we set off on our final leg down the west coast.

July 11 – July 20 Coal Harbour to Mac Kenzie Anchorage 208 nm

Joe arrived the evening of July10 and we set off on the morning of July 11 at 1030 to catch the slack at Quatsino Narrows. We were hoping to get to Klaskish Inlet but the winds were blowing 25knots from the SE so we headed for North Harbour in Forward Inlet. Three other boats were already at the anchorage. The day was wet and grey and we went below to warm up as soon as we had the anchor set. We enjoyed a supper of coconut shrimp, mashed potatoes and broccoli.

Joe settles in on a grey blustery day

On July 12 we had a layover day in North Harbour with winds continuing from the SE at 20-30 knots. We attended to some minor leaks coming in from the foredeck, we think through the inner forestay fitting. We played cards, introducing Joe to “French Whist.” He plays bridge so caught on pretty quickly. I had a short kayak.

On July 13, left the anchorage at 0830 after a porridge breakfast. It was a grey day but good visibility. Still no wind from the NW but light winds from SE.  We managed to pick up some Bell coverage and phoned Jonathan to wish him happy birthday (39^th). Joe got through Benvon and Mary. Motor sailed all the way to Columbia Cove just south of Brooks Peninsula. (40nm) The NW winds had yet to materialize. Three other boats were at anchor at Columbia Cove. We met a couple with a handcrafted nesting dinghy. It can be rowed and sailed and is available at Port Townsend. Only problem is that comes as a package with plans, not a finished product. info@ptwatercraft.com.

Went for a hike using the trail that connects to the long beach that faces westward. A gorgeous white sand beach extending for ½ mile between rocky outcrops.

Trail head is marked by a lost and found tree

Beach at Columbia Cove

Next day left the anchorage at 1030 with light winds on a clear day. We started under engine and made a heading of 140 T between O’Leary Islets and Barrier Islands. Set the sails and motor-sailed about half of the way until the winds picked up. Turned to the east 85 T and headed for Walters Cove. With the wind on our stern we sailed wing on wing until just past McLean Island. Furled in the genoa and motor-sailed rest of the way. Entrance to Walter’s Cove is tight with several navigation buoys to weave through. We docked at the public dock, which has free moorage! We walked the trail to Java the Hutt restaurant for supper. What a place. We received a warm welcome and had an evening of banter with the locals and the owner. The fish was great – French fries not so great. There is a public phone at the end of the public dock, a useful if quaint piece of technology. The cel phone coverage is poor here.

Free mooring at Walters Cove

July 15 - left Walter’s Cove at 1000 and made our way through Nicolae Channel out to Nootka Sound. Wind started to fill in from the NW at 1100. We had a great run down the coast at 5.5-6 knots. Distance to Friendly Cove is 42nm so really nice that we were able to sail most of the way. We arrived to find the anchorage at Friendly Cove occupied by 7 other boats.  Summer of 2015 was a particularly challenging year to travel down the west coast with lots of gale warnings and high winds to tackle, resulting in some of the best known hidey-holes being over subscribed as cruisers waited for weather windows. Friendly Cove has a few full time residents, a well-known carver and some light house keepers.  It also has a church with wonderful stained glass that commemorates the Spannish arrival and treaty with indigenous peoples in the 1700s.  We did not go ashore this time as it was late in the evening by the time we anchored. We all had showers after supper and had an early night.

Friendly Cove Lighthouse

There was a gale warning in effect for July 16. Our plan was to leave early and run for Hot Springs Cove. Others had the same idea. We left at 0600 and most of the boats had already set off. It was already 15 knots as we made for Estevan Point. We heard on the radio from the cruisers ahead of us that winds were 20 knots off Estevan Point. We stayed well clear of the point and went out to the beacon before turning south towards Hot Springs Cove. The NW winds rose to 20-25 knots. The seas were short and choppy and we hand steered most of the way. We arrived at Hot Spring Cove at 1130, avoiding the worst of the weather that continued to blow and accelerate, reaching gale force in the afternoon. We had a nice leisurely afternoon with a hike to the Hot Springs. That evening John discovered that the saltwater engine cooling pump was dripping. (MG6) John now on a mission to find a replacement.

July was a layover day as we waited for gale conditions to subside. We had lunch at the floating restaurant – salmon filets on a bun and chocolate mousse cake. Yummy. Ger kayaked to the FN village across the bay. Went for a walk to the band office and the small local store. Bought some homemade bread and met a local teacher. Donated a copy of Dragon Quest to local elementary.

On July 18 we motor-sailed in large swells to Tofino. Wind had subsided but the ocean was still churning. We decided not to go further than Tofino. There were very large swells as we approached Templar Channel off Leonard Island. A small break in the waves allowed for our entrance. A bit nerve racking. We went to the 4^th Street Public Wharf. We got no response from our radio call so went to the fuel dock to get diesel. Ger went to organize moorage at public dock. We were assigned a very tight spot at the head of wharf between E and D finger. Tightest spot we have ever maneuvered into.  We had perhaps 45 feet to squeeze our 43 feet into. 

Picnic at Chesterman Beach - Joe and John relaxing

We had a layover day in Tofino waiting for waves to settle and winds to become favourable. We did laundry, grocery and showers. The following day was a freebee. We took the free shuttle to Chesterman Beach for a picnic and had a dip – the water was freezing but refreshing. We ate at Sobos and Schooner while in Tofino. Both had good quality food, service and ambiance. NOTE: When there are high temperatures and high winds from NW – south of Estevan experiences winds from the SE at lower velocities.

We prepared to leave at 0600 on July 20. We warped the boat to slowly turn bow of boat around the mooring. A slight ebb helped the procedure. We got underway and out of Tofino Harbour by 0630. It was a grey day but fairly good visibility. The ebb tide helped our passage through Templar Channel. The swell outside was 4-6 feet with good distance – pleasant conditions but very little wind. We motored with main sail up about 2nm from the shore. Encountered many crab traps off Long Beach. We went out beyond the 200 ft contour to try and avoid the crab traps. We encountered a fog bank off the Broken Island group, visibility much decreased. We took watches but still  had a close encounter with another sailboat. The wind came up at 1330 and we were able to turn off the engine and sail the rest of the way at 5-6 knots, a very pleasant end to the passage with Joe at the Helm. We had the anchor down by 1500 at Mackenzie anchorage. We went deep into a small bight. This location is a good jumping off point for the Juan de Fuca.

Juan de Fuca Sleigh Ride 80nm

At COD (crack of dawn) we left the anchorage hoping to run the Juan de Fuca in a straight shot and get through Race Passage before the current turns. The day started out grey with heavy swells around Cape Beal and strong winds at the entrance to the Juan de Fuca. We sailed for about 45mins and then the winds died down to below 10 knots. We put the engine on to keep our speed at 5+knots. Needed to keep the speed up to reach Race Passage in time. We had several hours of pleasant motor –sailing before the winds filled in from the NW. The winds picked up shortly beyond the entrance to Port Renfrew. We turned off the engine and set the whisker pole. We proceeded to have the most amazing downwind sail under full sail, perfectly balanced and using the autohelm. We did 6-7 knots for about two hours. Winds built to 20 knots and our speed increased to 7-8 knots (8knots is hull speed for our boat). We arrived at Race Passage at 1900 and were around the corner to Pedder Bay at 1930. Best sail down the Juan de Fuca we have ever had. Winds had built to 25 knots just as we rounded the rocks. Gale force winds set in later. We were very grateful to be through the Juan de Fuca and safely at anchor at Pedder Bay.

Preparing to Pole out for sleigh ride on Juan de Fuca

July 22-25 Pedder Bay to Steveston 97nm

July 22 – Had a nice sleep in at Pedder Bay, followed by pancake breakfast before setting out for Sidney Spit. Looked like we dragged a little while at anchor. Anchor was full of kelp and John spent quite a bit of time clearing it from the chain. We had a nice sunny day with perfect conditions – winds 10-15 knots all the way. Decided to take the route inside Discovery Island. A bit tricky to navigate under sail, but worked well. More downwind sailing all the way to Sidney Spit with one or two jibes enroute. We picked up a mooring buoy after threading our way through the shallows and dinghied ashore. There is a lovely walk around the trails. It’s a wonderful facility with beaches, trails and mooring buoys for $10/night.

Next morning motored across to Van Isle marina in Sidney. John had ordered a salt water pump that he can pick up there. We were assigned D717, which required a sharp left after the fuel/customs dock. Moorage was steep – $1.75/ft/night but we weren’t complaining. A bit of luxury to finish our trip was welcome. It’s a beautiful marina with showers, laundry and a good restaurant. This was Joe’s last night. We had our final game of French whist. Joe was the winner, which made him the champion for most games won during his stay with us.

We had made plans to bring the boat to Shelter Island Marina located up the south arm of the Fraser River, twelve miles upriver from Steveston. We are having the bottom paint removed down to the gelcoat to assess for blisters. Next day we sailed to Village Bay on Mayne Island to be set up for the early morning slack at Active Pass. Village Bay has a ferry terminal and a submarine cable close to the anchoring area. The bay was full of private mooring buoys. We anchored at one of the few remaining spaces, dropping the hook as far away from the cable as possible. We stayed onboard for the rest of the day. Had a game of scrabble and watched an episode of “Single Handed” an Irish detective series.

Got up at 0600 for a quick breakfast before heading for active pass. We stayed inside the ferry route. Even at 0630 the ferries were on the move. One large one and one smaller one went through the pass ahead of us. We arrived just after slack turning to flood. There was very little turbulence and we had a calm transit through the pass.  We motor-sailed in light winds across the strait.  We were on a flood tide one hour after slack when we reached the long approach to Steveston. We still had 2 knots of current against us from the river. We were able to moor inside the new concrete jetty at the public dock. Best to moor inside the jetty as passing boats create too much wave action on the outside. Glen Priestly from BC met us there. We went for supper with Glen and Heidi at Kisimos and had a lovely evening together. Steveston was the end of our expedition. Sea Reach would be in dry dock upriver for next several weeks.

We had traveled 1293 nm in total. The engine was on for a total of 197 hours, 100 of which were sail assisted. We had a total of 61 hours of sailing. This amounted to 24% of pure sailing, 39% motor-sailing and 37% under engine alone.  A total of 6 MG’s to keep us from getting bored. That and the odd gale to keep us on our toes. And they ask us “what do you do all day while cruising!”