Topolobampo to La Paz

May 08-12, 2012

We returned to Topolobampo in high spirits after our wonderful overland adventure in the Copper Canyon region. We got a great welcome from Gabby and Raphael at Marina Palmira who certainly helped to make our stay in the marina there a very pleasant one. We had one more meal at the marina restaurant, Los Pelicanos, and opted for one of the house specialities, Filete Los Pelicanos which was  a breaded ensemble of fish, shrimp and octopus, wrapped in foil and baked to perfection. Hats off to chief Ricardo for another delicious meal. He came out to talk to us before the meal and wanted to know how our trip went as he is from Chihuahua and is a member of the Valderama family who own a number of hotels in the region. He was delighted to hear that we had stayed one night at La Poseda del Hidalgo in El Fuerte. That night, it was someone’s birthday at the dock. A fullout mariachi band had been ordered for the occasion and they marched down the dock and posted themselves opposite our boat where they serenaded the birthday celebrant for a good hour. Another free concert from the deck of Sea Reach and a better appreciation for the regional music of Mexico.

Gabby and Raphael at Marina Palmira - Topolobampo

We set off next morning under glorious sunshine but little wind. The 10 mile passage down the channel from Topo to the open sea was made under engine with the main sail up. We passed several shrimp boats enroute. A passing seabird, booby of some description (not blue-footed) decided to hitch a ride and stayed on one of the spreaders until we were out at sea and putting out the genoa. We decided to set a course for Playa Bonanza on Isla Espiritu Santo and go there as our first option if the wind was favourable. It was for the first four hours and though we were sailing along at just 3-4 knots due to light winds, we were bang on our course. Something happens when you approach the middle of the Sea of Cortez. Competing weather systems provide a confused situation. The seas become choppy and the wind becomes variable. We had decided that rather than fight the wind we would keep our destination flexible and when the winds started to come in from the SE we changed course to Isla San Francisco.  As the night progressed and the winds kept shifting we were headed further north towards Isla San Jose. An about change mid morning of May 09 had us back on course for Isla San Francisco where we dropped the hook at 1500 h. A fine waltz across the Sea but all under sail at least. We had a very pleasant sail the following day to the east bite of Caleta Partida. We were the only boat anchored on that side.

Booby hitches a ride while motoring down the 10 mile channel out of Topolobampo

As our dinghy was deflated and strapped down, we decided to swim ashore for some exercise and a walk across to the west bite. John still has his finger splinted so he had the additional challenge of swimming while holding his left hand out of the water to keep the dressing dry. I put flippers on for the trip but Mark Spitz considered the 300 yards are so to not require such navigational aids. He set off before me, looking like the illusive blue-footed booby with his left hand sticking out of the water in a blue nitrile glove.  Although he was well ahead of me by the time I set off after him, he was quite handicapped by his lopsided dog paddle and for a change I was the one leading the charge to the beach. He did make it and we had a nice walk on the shoreline but he was thoroughly fatigued and humbled by the elements by the time he had doggy paddled and back-stroked his way back to the boat. The following morning just as we were getting ready to leave we were visited by one of the fishermen from the fish camp. It was Ernolfo whom we had bartered with on our last trip to Partida. He had a broken broom handle and a large hook for which he was looking for a screw to fashion a gaff with. He was also hoping we had extra water in our tanks and had brought some containers with him. John did a great job of screwing on the hook and strapping it with some of our bounteous supply of spare rope of all sizes while I filled one of his containers with water. The usual pantomime of charades and Spanglish was required to communicate but we are getting better at it. Enolfo told us that he had been fishing in this area for over 40 years and that he likes to fish (something I was glad to hear because it can’t be an easy life). He also told us that he saw us walking on the beach the previous evening and was impressed to hear that we had swam ashore.

We headed off under very light winds and were amused at how tolerant we have become with ghosting along under light winds. We were just headed down 13 nm to Playa Bonanza so were in no hurry but finally turned the engine on when we went below 1k. As we rounded the reef off the north end of Bonanza the wind came up from the NE and we just couldn’t resist the chance at what would be one of our last chances to sail before leaving for the hurricane season. Off went the engine, out spun the genoa and we had a wonderful reach all the way to Caleta Lobos which we firmly believe should have a name change to Caleta Bobos as the pesky flies were out in full force once we arrived. Other than that it is a wonderful anchorage and if you go in deep enough and close to the south side you get a fair amount of protection from night time coromuels. This would be our last night at anchor before returning to La Paz. We went below to savour the experience and reflect on cruising the spectacular Sea of Cortez.

When we considered the last four weeks of cruising and the many wonderful people we had met while exploring this beautiful sea and country, we felt very blessed indeed.

The next morning was a short 10nm to La Paz mostly under engine. We were lucky to get a spot at Marina de La Paz so that we could be close to town and our favorite mechanic, Joel, as we prepared Sea Reach for a long layup during the hot summer months.