ODYSSEY IN THE SEA OF CORTEZ

PART I – La Paz to Escondido

April 14, 2012

La Paz to Caleta Lobos

We left Marina La Paz on Saturday April 14 at 1340 hrs for a four-week trip on the spectacular Sea of Cortez. We said a fond farewell to staff at Marina De La Paz as we will be leaving Sea Reach at Costa Baja Marina for the summer months.  We thoroughly enjoyed our stay there and can’t speak highly enough of the marina, its staff and its unique charm, located in the heart of the La Paz waterfront and within walking distance of all one’s needs.  However, Costa Baja is also a very well run marina and a good deal more protected for the hurricane season, which is why we will be leaving Sea Reach there.

We spent our first night at anchor at Caleta Lobos after a wonderful sail against 18 knots of wind from the NW. As we only had 10 nm to travel we decided to enjoy the wind and do two long tacks to make the entry to Caleta Lobos under sail. During our first tack, John, unfortunately injured one of his fingers while attending to the sheets and will not be playing the flute for a few weeks. A loaded winch requires one’s full attention and he paid dearly, tearing a tendon on his ring finger, while attempting a one handed approach to unloading the winch. The resulting fracas had us heading too close to Roca Lobos on our approach so we decided to do one more short tack to make a clean entry under sail mid channel.  At 1630hrs, we were anchored deep into the SE corner of the anchorage to get some shelter offered from the nighttime Coromuels.

There were no Coromuels as it turned out (these are generally from the WSW and create swell in many of the SW facing anchorages) but the wind did pipe up from the NE and whistled through the rigging. This had me up in the middle of the night securing the halyards and searching for the source of various noises, one of which turned out to be a can rolling round in a cupboard in the galley!  

Sea Reach enroute to Isla Partida

April 15, 2012

Caleta Lobos to Isla Partida

We started our morning by listening to the Sunrisa Net at 0730hrs. This is a Ham net that operates in the Sea of Cortez and provides weather relays and general communications for cruisers. We were saddened to hear of the death of Don Anderson, the legendary weather guru who had broadcast weather reports for both outside and inside passages on the Baja for years. He had recently stopped broadcasting and was believed to be moving his SSB station but some concerned friends who had not seen him for a week went looking for him and found him in his boat. The exact circumstances of his death are unknown at this time.  The services provided by amateur weather forecasters, most of them on a volunteer basis, is invaluable for cruisers.  Don will be missed. May he rest in peace.

Bob Geary provides the weather synopsis for the Sunrisa Net and we are thankful to have this option available to us as we have yet to get our pactor modem up and running. Moderate winds of 15-20 kn from the NW were forecast for the next several days over our projected course – right on the nose. We put in one reef before leaving the anchorage as we anticipated accelerated winds as we crossed the San Lorenzo Channel to reach the islands. We were glad that we had, winds throughout the afternoon ranged from 18 – 23kn and the seas were quite choppy and steep. Sea Reach is quite happy ploughing into the wind, but 7kn in a direction away from where you are headed turns out to be about 3 kn made good by the time you have finished tacking. Nevertheless, that is exactly how we proceeded. It was interesting for us to watch the progress of another sailboat that left a little ahead of us who opted to crash head long into the wind without sails and under power.  The distance between Caleta Lobos and Isla Partida is 15 nm. We figured we traveled between 25 and 30 nm to reach our anchorage on Isla Partida. They went straight but it was slow going for them. They reached their anchorage about 30 minutes ahead of us. I wonder if their day was as thrilling as ours. Admittedly, it was a bit of a slog but our diesel tanks are still full and as we won’t be back in La Paz for a month this is a consideration.

Curious gull checks out Sea Reach for any possible handouts 

Shortly after we had anchored, we were visited by a local fisherman who wanted to barter with us for some fresh fish filets.  This is the first time anyone has approached us to barter. He was not interested in cash. We gave him a Baja Haha 2011 T-Shirt (I was not gone on scantily clad figure that it was emblazoned with). Not sure what the fisherman thought of it, but he did accept it. I also gave him a packet of chewing gum that he seemed happier with it. I’ll have to sort out my supplies and organize items for future bartering, as I suspect that as we move further north it will become more common. We are snugged down for the night in El Cardoncito just north of Caleta Partida, a gem of an anchorage that we have to ourselves except for a few curious sea gulls who landed on our dinghy wondering about freebies.

Sea Reach at anchor at Isla San Francisco

April 16, 2012

El Cardoncito to Isla San Francisco – 23 nm

After a very restful night’s sleep, we set off for Isla San Francisco at 1030hrs. The wind was WNW at the forecast 15kn and we set off under full sail and close hauled to once again make our way north. For the first few hours the sea state was excellent but became choppy as the wind increased to 18kn in the afternoon. We put a reef in the main and settled into a good game of scrabble in the cockpit. We arrived at the anchorage at 1700 hrs. The magnificent crescent shaped anchorage at San Francisco is bordered on the east and west sides by red cliffs. A white sand beach rings the bay and forms a flat spit between the two cliff faces. We anchored with just 5 feet under the keel to get tucked in behind the natural breakwater on the southeast entrance. A hiking trail runs up the ridge on the SE shore. We hiked up to the ridge that provides a panoramic view of the island and surrounding seascape. There were whales spouting out in the sea, traveling along the same route we had traveled earlier. We hadn’t seen any whales during our passage but had been visited by scores of Pacific white-sided dolphins, their lithe bodies scudding through the water and under our bow as they hurried to greet us as we passed close by them.

On the ridge at Isla san Francisco

We had another tranquil night at anchor. In the morning we took one more walk on the beach and climbed once again to the top of the ridge, this time with the camera in hand. As we prepared to leave, Richard and Cynthia from SV Tranquility stopped by. They had spotted us coming into the anchorage the previous evening and recognized the boat name as having been a fellow participant on the 2011 Baja Haha. They came over to let us know that they had taken a nice photo of us during the Baja Haha and would send it to us if we provided them with an e-mail address. What a pleasant surprise!

Salt ponds at San Evaristo

Raking the salt at San Evaristo

Raked salt mound

Finished bags of salt

April 17, 2012

Isla San Francisco to San Evaristo

This was a nice gentle motor-sail across the 7nm stretch between Isla San Francisco and San Evaristo. We were anchored again by 1300hrs, nestled amidst six other boats at the anchorage. We had quesadillas for lunch and then enjoyed a siesta during the hottest part of the day. At 1600hrs we got in the dinghy and went ashore. This small fishing village has about 20 full time families, a primary school, and a small tienda. We visited the small tienda and bought some diet coke, tinned fruit and fresh tomatoes. A group of kayakers were enjoying the shade offered at the tienda to have a cool drink. We walked on to the salina, about half a mile from the village and watched as the workers raked the salt into heaps to dry. They wore white rubber boots to protect their feet in the salt saturated ponds. The work is hard and tedious and performed under the full sun of the open evaporation ponds. From our exchange with one of the workers in our limited Spanish we understood that it takes 30-40 days for the drying process to create crystals ready for raking.

On our way back to the beach we met three more cruisers and discovered that one of them, Gerry, had a Spencer 42’, a sister ship to Sea Reach. As only 26 hulls were ever made of the Spencer 42’ we were quite excited to meet a fellow owner. Later that evening, Gerry stopped by to check out Sea Reach.  His boat, Moshulla, is hull # 4. Sea Reach is hull # 26, the last of the Spencer 42’ to be made. The hull was laid in 1983 and the boat was finished over a 10 year period before being commissioned in 1993. We planned on taking or dinghy over the following morning to check Moshulla out but we slept in and she was away by the time we had finished our pancakes and coffee. We look forward to meeting up with her at another anchorage. A kayaker came over to Sea Reach to see if we had a weather forecast. Because of our late start we had missed the Sunrisa Net weather forecast and were unable to be of assistance. We knew the weather was due to change but were not expecting a strong front as part of the change, not enough information for a vulnerable kayaker to plan his route by.

Fishing camp at Mangle Solo

Giant Cardon cacti at Mangle Solo 

Arroyo at Mangle Solo

April 18, 2012

San Evaristo to Mangle Solo -7nm

We had a leisurely sail across the San Jose Channel to Mangle Solo on Isla San Jose. Because of the steep shoreline we anchored as close to the shore as was prudent. With about 7’ under the keel we were within 80metres of the shore with a good view of the small fishing camp. No boats were tied up so either everyone was out fishing or it was unused at this time of year. At 1200hrs the sun was high and the seas were flat, a perfect time for a refreshing swim.  We noticed that barnacles had already started to grow on the stern at waterline, despite having been scraped a few weeks earlier. Enrique, kept the hull clean while we were away, diving once every two months to scrape the hull. He changed out one of the zincs for us just before we left La Paz. There had been a lot of electrolysis over the 4 months. It will be interesting to see if the situation improves at Costa Baja. In Squamish, we change the zincs once a year with zinc to spare.

A 1600hrs with a nice wind and the sun a little lower in the sky we took the dinghy ashore and explored the beach and shoreline. We passed the fishing camps set on the beach, a tenuous hold on a windswept shoreline. One of them had a satellite dish and solar power. Bags of salt were stacked by the makeshift tents, ready to preserve the catch, until there was enough to ferry to market. We marveled at the grittiness of the endeavor. Further inshore was forest of Cardon cacti. This gigantic cacti can grow as much as 70’ tall and 4’ wide. These cacti were not that tall but definitely in the 30’+range and most impressive when viewed en masse. Dozens of frigate birds circled in from the sea as turkey vultures scoured the shoreline for pickings. We came across the well-rotted carcass of a donkey (at least that was our best guess given the telltale signs of manure we had spotted earlier). We wondered what ill fate had befallen the poor beast. On our walk back we were treated to a large school of dolphins about 1/2 mile offshore traveling very fast. They appeared to be fishing and were followed by a flock of seabirds who circled overhead and darted close to the surface in pursuit of some remnants and scrapes from the hunt. It was awe inspiring sight watching these well adapted creatures work the seas methodically with grace, speed and vigour.

The wind filled in from the SW in the early evening and is it climbed to 14 knts we started to regret not having an up to date forecast as the anchorage was unprotected from the SW and the roll started to increase. However at about 2000hrs it started to settle and we ended up with a very pleasant night on the hook.

Approach to Los Gatos

Swirling rock formations in Los Puertos

April 19, 2012

Mangle Solo to Puerto Los Gatos – 21nm

Up early enough to listen to the Sunrisa net and the promise of light following winds from the SW with a three-day forecast of two days of low to no winds from the north followed by more light winds from the SW. We headed off at 0900h with a pleasant 10kn following wind that moved us along at a leisurely 3-4 knots for the first few hours of the morning. By 1200h the wind dropped to 6-8kns and our speed was down to 2.5 knots. The motion was so comfortable we could have been at the dock. The Sea of Cortez spread majestically before us, a cobalt blue wash framed by the jagged Sierra Giganta.  Instead of breaking the spell with the drum of the diesel engine, we opted to mooch along and enjoy the perfect afternoon. We were sailing wing on wing with the autohelm being driven by our full battery bank kept topped up by the ample supply of sunlight on our solar panels. We have been very pleased by the efficiency of our solar panels. With a capacity of 340watts, they are keeping the batteries well supplied. We put the watermaker on during the day for several hours and this is keeping our water tanks topped up.

We arrived at Puerto Los Gatos in the late afternoon where there were several boats already anchored. This anchorage has spectacular red rock bluffs in its northern lobe. These smooth billowing rocks look like they oozed out of the earth’s core as red mud and then caked and dried in folding layers. We went for hike on these rocks and by the shoreline in the early evening and enjoyed the abundance of intertidal life as crabs and hermit crabs scurried over the rocks in search of their evening meal.

We saw Moshulla arrive shortly after us and decided to go over and check out our sister boat. Gerry has done a wonderful job with the 1963 Spencer 42’ and she is in pristine condition. Her hull was gleaming and the many upgrades belied her age. She looked every bit as impressive as the many modern yachts at anchor.

Sister Spencer 42' Moshulu

Gerry aboard Mushulu

Getting ready for snorkelling

April 20, 2012

Puerto Los Gatos to Bahia San Marte – 14 nm

We woke to a glorious morning that promised to be hot and calm. We went for a morning snorkel and were treated to a wide variety of fish and plant life on the nearby reef. Sea urchins, starfish, parrot fish, angel fish, needle fish to name the few we are familiar were all present in large numbers. We weighed anchor at 1200h and with no wind we sparked up old ‘perky’ and headed north to Bahia San Marte.

Two pieces of navigational aids are proving invaluable to us on this trip. The first is a set of corrected charts for the Sea of Cortez developed by Gerry Cunningham and the second is the very excellent cruising guide developed by Shawn Breeding and Heather Bansmer. Our electronic charts are insufficient to find one’s way around the myriad of anchorages, islands and reefs on the Sea of Cortez. These two resources provide accurate data and the cruising guide includes a wealth of additional information that greatly enriches the experience.

There was one other motor yacht at the anchorage when we arrived. The sea and the wind were so calm that the Sea Reach hung limply off the anchor chain and with the sun still high and hot we went below decks to the shade of the cabin for the rest of the afternoon.

Garden at Aqua Verde

Restaurant at Aqua Verde

Roosting turkey vultures at Aqua Verde

April 21, 2012

Bahia San Marte to Bahia Aqua Verde – 7 nm

With just a short trip planned for today we had a leisurely morning. We celebrated the First Day of Ridvan at 1100 hrs with readings, prayers and music before weighing anchor.  We carefully treaded our way between the headland and an off laying reef to avoid backtracking around the chain of reefs that lie off the north easterly part of the anchorage.  Once around the headland a pleasant breeze from the NE allowed us to make our way north on a beam reach at about 3 knots.

This brought us all the way into the anchorage at Aqua Verde and we set our anchor without putting on the engine, a first for us on Sea Reach. We were nicely set, parallel to Tranquility whose crew we had met in San Evaristo. Aqua Verde is a fishing village with over 200 residents and has two tiendas, a restaurant and a school that provides both elementary and secondary education. We were looking forward to checking out both the tiendas and the restaurant. Saturday is not a good day for shopping at these little tiendas, so we did not get much in the way of provisions but did by a few drinks and tomatoes in the first tienda and some cookies and freshly made tortillas in the second. The village has a water supply fed from a mountain water source and quite a bit of care has been taken by the town residents to grow trees, flowers and vegetables, creating a little oasis in the desert.

The restaurant consisted of one table with six chairs under the awning to a two roomed home. They were happy to see us arrive and wondered if there were two more or just us. We confirmed that it was just two of us. There was no menu. Fish was what was being served. When I asked for a Coca Light, the cook/waitress hesitated but confirmed that yes I could have one. John went for a regular coke to keep the stress level down. Shortly afterwards, a young boy was seen heading off to the nearest tienda to procure the cokes. I wondered if we were going to regret our venture into the local cuisine. I need not have worried. In less than 10 minutes two steaming platefuls (plastic plates) of succulent battered and deep fried fresh fish arrived, served with seasoned rice and fresh tomato and cucumber salsa.  A basket of warm tortillas was also provided. I gave the server a surprised look and added the word “rapido!” She smiled. As John and I tucked into our meal three members from the household sat around looking at us. We hoped we were not eating their dinners.

Shortly afterwards four more cruisers arrived and joined us at the table. They had made reservations before going on their walk  - hence the fast service. They had been expecting these four guests. Now we wondered if we had eaten their meals!

All was well. There was enough for everyone and we had a good laugh before heading off down the village to walk off our very adequate supper.

The following morning as we were preparing to leave, we had two visitors. One was a women on a kayak who was traveling around the anchorage picking up bags of garbage for 20 pesos a small bag and 30 pesos for a large bag. We had a small bag full and ready to go and gladly handed it over to her with the 20 pesos. As she moved between the boats she sang a little song to amuse herself and alert people that she was coming. Quite enterprising. She had her children waiting on the beach to collect the bags as she went in with each full load. She was followed by a man in a panga who was selling jewelry and hand embroidered pillow squares or ‘serviettes’ as the call them. I bought a nice necklace but passed on the embroidered squares. I had already bought one of higher quality and reckoned I would get lots more opportunity to buy others along the way.

John still protecting his finger

April 22, 2012

Bahia Aqua Verde to Bahia Candeleros – 17 nm

Once again, light breezes from the NE made it possible to continue up the coast on a beam reach at about 3 knts. It was another glorious day. Dolphins joined us for part of our journey as well as three other sail boats making their way north. We took photos of two closest to us with the intention of e-mailing them if we meet up and get their details at one of the anchorages. The wind completely dropped in themed afternoon and we took down our sails and motored the last 7 miles to Bahia Candeleros. We were very hot by the time we set anchor and wasted no time in changing into swimming gear and going for a refreshing swim. At about 1800hrs a Coromuel came piping over the hills into the anchorage. Thankfully there was no swell due to the protection of the hills but it rapidly grew to 25 knts. As our boat swung round on its anchor it came loose and we started to drag. Fortunately we noticed it almost immediately and quickly jumped to action stations to avoid running into the boat closest go us. When we brought the anchor up it was full of weeds. We moved over to a sandier location and reset the anchor in 16 feet of water with an 8 to 1 scope. This time we held solidly throughout the night. Just as well because the wind continued to howl until the early morning light and then disappeared like a thief in the night.

Town Centre Loreto

Painted tree in Loreto

April 23, April 24, 2012

Layover at Puerto Escondido

We made our way just 7nm up the coast to one of the few marinas on the northern route. Puerto Escondido has just space for 10 boats at the dock but has 50 mooring balls dotted around a very protected inner harbor. With wifi, laundry, a restaurant and mini –mart, it was time to clean up and restock. We also took the opportunity to refuel but had used just about 50 litres since starting the cruising season, a nice pay back for the slow passages under sail. There is a small yacht club here for cruisers to hang out and meet each other. They host a morning net at 0800hrs on VHF. We were fortunate enough to hook up with a ride to Loreto via the morning net on April 24.

Richard, from SV Trinity, not only gave us a ride into Loreto, 16 k away but also gave us a great introduction to the town and brought us to all the best spots for groceries, produce and anything else we needed. It’s a lovely town. As summer is approaching fast, they were starting their slow season so there was none of the expected tourist hustle and bustle. I did manage to find some of the beautifully hand painted pottery that they are known for which was my main mission. We stopped at a local bakery that Richard highly recommended. The shelves were empty. We were greatly disappointed and could smell freshly baked produce coming from the kitchen. The lovely young couple who run the place told us that there isn’t enough business to keep it going during the summer months and they were planning on moving to Puerto Vallarta. Sensing our disappointment she sent her husband back into the kitchen and he brought out 3 small freshly baked loaves, one for each of us – as gifts. She absolutely would not accept money for them. I went searching in my bag for two of Alisons prayer cards in Spannish and hoped that a gift of some of the uplifting words of Baha’u’llah would bring her the same joy she bestowed upon us. The loaves were warm and smelling of herbs. We had them stuffed with lettuce, cheese and tomatoes for lunch. Delicious!