With less than two weeks left before we head back to Squamish we decided to head off to explore Isla Espiritu Santo and Isla Partida Marine Park. The National Park Islands lie 20 miles north of La Paz and are famous for their marine life, snorkeling and hiking. After three months of mostly long hauls we were looking forward to short day trips between the many secluded anchorages on the islands.
We were not disappointed. This nature reserve is a paradise of unspoiled beauty.
Our first stop was at Bahia San Gabriel. We arrived in the anchorage mid afternoon after a wonderful sail close hauled from La Paz.
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| Breda enjoys a warm shower after swim |
The next morning we took the dinghy ashore and hiked the trail that links San Gabriel with Playa Bonanza on the island’s eastern shore. The guidebook says that the trail is two miles but under the tropical sun it feels a lot longer. The trail winds through the valley floor and is covered with cacti and prickly undergrowth. Having recently seen the western The Good the Bad and the Ugly I couldn’t help feeling just a bit like Clint Eastwood as he trudged across the dessert on a forced march. We were happy to reach the other side and plunge into the refreshing cooler waters of the eastern shore. At least they felt cooler but that might have been because we were all over heated.
We decided to stay an extra night there when Chanty IV arrived into the bay with Daragh and Catherine aboard. Fellow bluewater cruisers that we hadn’t seen since San Diego, we invited them over to Sea Reach for an evening of music. Daragh plays the mandolin and Catherine the guitar. They came bearing their instruments and sheet music. We had a wonderful evening and worked our way through numerous Irish ballads as well as a few sea shanties.
Next day we headed for Ensenada del Candelero. A 20k NW wind had us beating our way up to the anchorage but as it was only seven miles from San Gabriel we were happy to slog it out under sail. The anchorage was spectacular. Roca Monumenta rears up at the western edge of reef extending out from the beach. A sheer cliff of red sandstone forms a northerly protection. We decided that the cliff would provide a perfect vantage for a scenic photo shot of Sea Reach. We set off on the dinghy and found a small cove to dock at the base of the cliff where a ridge provided a steep but doable ascent. John – the explorer set off like a mountain goat and before long I had lost sight of him. Mike and Breda set off looking for an easier way up (which they found!). The boulders got larger and more vertical the higher I climbed. I was starting to feel less than safe and glancing down to the shoreline provided no solace. Looking up presented me with a slope that was getting steeper and sheerer. I called for John and his detached voice rang back at me from a distance. He was almost at the top but he confirmed that the going was steeper towards the top and suggested that I might like to go back. Well that was not much help. I was now in a psychological state that was threatening to develop into a panic attack. I felt that I could neither go up or down. I decided to rest for a minute or two. This helped to settle my nervousness and renewed my resolve. I continued up to the top and Mike who had spotted me fretting at the last few boulders that needed to be climbed came over to offer some advice and assistance. The view from the top was breath taking and we could see Sea Reach sitting at anchor in a setting that was postcard perfect.
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| Sea Reach in Bahia Candelero |
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| Climbing up to view of Bahia Candlero |
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| Cliffs of red sandstone ring Bahia Candelero |
Next morning we swam from the boat over to the reef and snorkeled off Roca Monumento. There were 15 dolphins swimming at the other side of the reef. The reef was teeming with fish and at times I felt small fish brushing off me as they tried to get out of my way. We are certainly getting our exercise between the swimming and hiking. After lunch we weighed anchor and headed to Ensenada Grande, four miles further north. With just the Genoa out for the short trip, we glided up the coastline at a leisurely pace.
Ensenada Grande is a large three lobed anchorage on Isla Partida. There were several boats already anchored but there was plenty of room for everyone. We anchored in 12 feet of water and went ashore for a short hike before supper.
A solar powered sysmic monitoring device is locating in the middle lobe. A replanting program of several native species of cacti was also in evidence close to the beach though the plantings looked a bit stressed. Several interpretive posters provided information on the geology and marine life of the islands. Next morning we headed off in the dinghy in search of blue-footed boobies. A rookery is sited just south of Ensenada Grande. I think our timing was off. No boobies were to be seen. We talked to some people at the anchorage and they had seen them that evening perching in the rock crevices but it seems that they were all away fishing that morning. We had better luck locating the sealion colony at Los Islotes four miles further up the coast. Los Islotes are two rocky islets that are famous for their sealion rookery. We were treated to a great display of sealions basking in the sun and swimming and playing in the waters around the islets.
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| Approaching Los Islotes |
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| Sea arch at Los Islotes |
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| Los Islotes |
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| Sealions at Los Islotes |
Why we don’t mention the F-word on Sea Reach
“You need to get fishing licences for every person on board,” was the advice we were given before heading down to Mexico. We have some old, virtually un-used fishing equipment on board but with the treat of our boat being impounded and major fines for an infraction, we bought five fishing licences for Mexico before leaving San Diego on the Baja Haha. We had at that point, one rod, a net and a gaff. We would however, have five people on board at different stages during our cruise, hence the need for five fishing permits. Fishers are a notoriously enthusiastic lot and we were assured that our investment was well placed and that the fish off the Baja Peninsula practically leapt onboard with the slightest enticement. Bare hooks were sufficient for some, while others swore by a hand line with a cedar plug as bait. There seemed to be unanimous agreement about the efficacy of the cedar plug so we decided to buy some hand line and a cedar plug plus large hook.
We set off from San Diego with great expectations. In fact my main worry was that we would catch too big of a fish for our very small freezer compartment and that I would be faced with the prospect of canning our catch. We were pre-occupied the first day with organizing our route and watch rotation so neglected to put a line out. However, at roll call the following morning there was great bragging to be heard across the airwaves of dorado, tuna and even a mahi-mahi that had been caught by other boats. The crew got busy setting up the hand-line and the captain threw the hook overboard with a flourish. The twenty-dollar cedar plug hopped from its leash and disappeared ahead of the hook into the depths. The line on our rod was deemed too light for the large fish being caught by the fleet so that was the end of the fishing until we got to Cabo San Lucas. We did however, have a small squid offer itself up to us one night by leaping onboard and splatting over the coach house roof. If we had our wits about us we could have used it for bait in lieu of the cedar plug. But the first mate took one look at the bulging eyes and withered little body and threw it back overboard with undue haste.
We are not quitters, so we bought another cedar plug in Cabo in anticipation of Mike and Breda joining us from Ireland. Breda was excited at the prospect of fishing but was not much impressed by the lifeless looking cedar plug.
Ever the adventurer she set off on a shopping expedition and returned with a colourful squishy looking squid facsimile. The weather was deemed too windy to fish enroute to San Jose so no attempt was made on that passage. Breda was determined to have fish on board one way or another and struck up a conversation with a fisherman at the Marina in San Jose. Early the following morning while the captain was otherwise occupied the fisherman came over and offered us some fish. Breda chose three and Mike cleaned two of them. The largest was secreted away in a plastic bag until we got underway. About half an hour into the journey during a sail change on the foredeck, Breda announced from the cockpit that she’s going to put a line out. The captain is doubtful that she will catch anything but indulges her fancy. What a surprise he gets when she reels one in within 15 minutes and then proceeds to whack it over the head and seemingly kill it instantly with the finesse of her effort! The ruse is played out until after supper when the captain proclaims his astonishment at the amount of flesh rendered from one medium size fish, at which point the truth is revealed. The miracle of the loaves and fishes it was not. Still we were hopeful that the very act of reeling a fish on board Sea Reach would end our dry spell. We continue putting line out for the next few days but the enthusiasm wanes as the effort is without reward. Breda remains determined and tried her hand trawling with the rod on the dinghy close to a reef in one of the anchorages on Isla Espiritu Santo. Other than snagging the line on rocks, the line remained slack. A last ditch effort is made enroute to Isla San Francisco, a journey of 20 miles from our previous anchorage. It was now or never. A balmy hot day with no winds had us motoring all the way. As the sun poured over the transom, the line was left to its own devices as the crew fled to the shade under the cockpit. Soon the line was totally forgotten. Upon arrival at our anchorage we dropped the anchor and proceeded to motor in reverse snagging the line and wrapping it around the propeller. Oops! The propeller is now fouled. We stop the engine and contemplate our predicament. At least we’re anchored in a bay with several other boats, one of which we are banking on has scuba gear on board. A snorkeling survey confirms that the line is well wrapped. A disgruntled captain gets in the dinghy and goes looking for help. He returns with an athletic young crew person from one of the motor yachts. We are greeted by a cheerful Derek. He’s had experience with this sort of thing – lots of experience. He decides to try and un-foul the line by free diving before resorting to scuba gear. His lithe body disappears below the keel and within a minute he returns and chucks a bunch of line and an eviscerated plastic lure onboard. A few more attempts and he has the whole thing cleared. We are in awe at his skill. Breda swears she will not mention the F-word for the rest of the trip and the rod and lures are placed into the deepest bowels of the lockers where they are out of temptation.
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| A fishy tale! |
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